Fly RC

November 18, 2016

The P-38s are here!!

As I got more involved with RC aircraft, I always wanted a twin engine aircraft… and in my book the only twin worth considering was the P-38 lightning. I have always thought the P-38 was a gorgeous aircraft and I kept an eye out for a chance to purchase a nice example but there were a few issues with acquiring one. Remember this was before the advent of high quality ARFs and certainly before low cost, high quality electric power systems became the norm so the only P-38s available were very large, very heavy gas powered craft with equally impressive price tags! Smaller glow powered versions were few and far between partly because keeping two glow engines in sync has always been a challenge and I would assume partly due to the difficulty of designing an building an aircraft as structurally complicated as the Lightning.

For instance, designing and building a light and rigid boom assembly with the landing gear location limiting your options for structural integrity in the wheel well area would certainly be challenging. And of course everything about the craft is round and tapered, making for additional challenges for the builder… especially if you wanted to create something close to the scale outline. Lots of beautiful curves means difficult to form from Balsa, glue and covering.

Lucky for me, the days of stronger foam, carbon fiber reinforcement and inexpensive electric power systems is upon us! Enter the Flightline RC P-38L available through Motion RC. Since these first became available a few months ago, my buddy Kelly and I have both been watching the various on line forums for reports of both build quality and the air handling of this latest iteration of an RC version of the Lightning. Reports seemed mostly positive so after he hinted for several months that we both should have one I recently texted Kelly with the phrase “I want the green one!” It only took about 3 days after that before Kelly arrived at my shop with two fairly large boxes. Here are a couple shots of the unboxing:

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And here is the workbench (all 12′ of it!) covered in P-38 parts!!! Now that is a bunch of airplane parts….

At first impression I can say that these things are pretty impressive. For $349, you are getting what seems to be a fairly strong airframe with two motors, two speed controllers, 9 servos, 3 bladed props, spinners, decals for 4 different aircraft, servo linkages, etc… Basically it looks like EVERYTHING you need to fly except batteries and a receiver. Yes, as widely reported, you can certainly see the foam cell structure through the paint. This is especially true of the silver model as it has a higher gloss/luster to it. Scale aficionados will doubtless be displeased but the overall lines are very nice and I am not trying to win any scale contests here so my initial impression is that they look pretty good.

I’ll post more as I get to assembling. I’ve already ordered the upgraded landing struts (they seem like deal for $40 for the set!) and my receiver is on order as well. I expect to be posting again soon as I don’t think I can stand to let these lay around here for very long. Christmas just came a month or so early!

July 4, 2016December 16, 2016

Using my Hero 4 GoPro Session and the Carbon Cub to search for a downed RC Glider

Recently one of my flying buddies (George) lost one wing panel on his glider while sailing along over the cornfield adjacent to our field. A couple of us who own multi-rotors with decent cameras were called upon to go on a little airplane hunting expedition. Unfortunately, my only available batteries for the quad (a 350 QX) are a bit weak and I was concerned that with the expected distance to cover, I would have a hard time getting enough time over the search area to be effective. Also, at that distance, the QX was going to look very small and I just don’t have enough time flying it to be comfortable at that distance. On the appointed day of the big search I arrived at the field and started planning some way to get out there and do a decent search. Starting out at the very edge of the field or perhaps even staging in a bare spot somewhere further out were considered but in the end I decided to hold out a bit until my friend Martin arrived with his much more capable Yuneec Typhoon H.

In the meantime, I decided it might be fun to do a survey of the field with the Carbon Cub and GoPro Session. I had a vague idea that if the aircraft was sitting high atop the corn stalks I might have a chance of getting a glimpse! Even if we did see it in the video it seemed unlikely to do more than confirm a rudimentary vector to look on and perhaps a little more refined idea of how far off the field, but since it involved flying my cub… So shortly after I had the Session mounted and a fresh battery installed in the cub and away we go!

I angled the camera down 60 degrees or so and then started the video and took off over the corn. I made three passes out and back along the line that the pilot reported his lost plane. 5 minutes later we fired up my laptop and started playing the video and carefully advancing a second or two at a time and looking on the video for anything that didn’t look like corn and especially anything white (which is the predominate color of the down airplane).

So here is a short clip of that flight… I highly recommend full screen for this one.

Did you spot it? Here’s a single frame with a bit of help on what to look for.

If you want to go back to the video around the 39 second mark you can probably pick it up for yourself now that you know what to look for. Also notice that later in the video as I pass over the edge of the field you can get a line on where you would have to exit the field to find the downed craft!

In fact, after viewing the video a few times and following the row where we saw the plane out to the edge of the field and marking that spot as best we could… I walked out into the corn with one other person and we found it as soon as we got out far enough into the field. In fact I walked to within 2 rows of corn on my first attempt and had no trouble finding it!

At this point I have no idea if we were just lucky or what. It helps that the plane is mostly white… a military camo pattern would have been tough!! I do know the video created by this camera is pretty amazingly detailed. What your seeing here is very compressed version but even in this clip it is possible to spot that nice white spot in the corn!

For those who are interested, we were able to recover all but the one wing panel which we didn’t spend much time looking for after we realized the aircraft was pretty much destroyed in the wreck. With what we had it what fairly obvious what happened that caused the wing to collapse. After a stern talk with the ground crew (George mumbled to himself for a while) we were assured this particular error would not happen again! 🙂

The GoPro Hero 4 is an awesome little camera with all of the quality you expect from the folks at GoPro packed in a small little cube that can mount on a variety of RC planes in many ways. It’s significantly lighter and smaller than the full size bodies with very similar quality video output. It is NOT an FPV camera… it is a great way to record the action and then view/edit and enjoy the awesome airborn views. Here’s a link:

And if you need a great platform to carry it the carbon cub is hard to beat. It can fly slow (almost walking speed with the flaps dropped) or move along briskly and carrying the camera has little to no affect on it’s flying characteristics. Here’s a link for that as well.

The Carbon Z Cub isn’t perfect… it has some paint peeling issues, the main gear mount could be sturdier and the motor has been known to occasionally give up the ghost… I’ve documented all that in other posts here… but I still recommend it because it just flys so darn well and it’s just a blast to fly. Add in top notch support from Horizon and you have pretty good airplane.

Anyway, it was fun and felt good to help a fellow flier get his airplane back. Even staring at video of the corn passing underneath the plane was interesting. Who doesn’t like a good video from an “elevated” perspective. Hope your search patterns yield equally good results. I’ll try to post some more soon on other interesting projects and happenings at the field. Until then, happy 4th of July! Or as we always called it at my house… “Happy dad’s birthday!”

May 23, 2016

Conversion of the Telemaster 40 to Electric Power – Part 3

When is the 300th flight a maiden? Telemaster 40 returns to flight once more!

Since the last update about 6 months ago, I finished up the covering job on the Telemaster and got all the servos and radio gear back in the old Telemaster 40. The usual challenges of hindging, recovering and getting control horns back in place kept me avoiding these somewhat onerous tasks but once I got past some of that and got close enough to see the finish line I quickly finished her up and it was time to put her back in the air.

Here it is after the final decals were applied, screws tightened and radio system installed.

One of the common tasks I ran into when I went to reinstall the servos was to rerun the servo wires out into the wing bays. Of course I should have run those when I had the covering off but of course that thought didn’t occur to me. First, I applied the servo clips (how can you attach extensions to servo wires without those?) to insure the wires stay together.

Then I grabbed my custom servo wire guiding tool (patent pending) and thread the wires back in there… This tool is quite complicated (a string and a nut) and customizable by picking out a longer string or a smaller or larger nut! Here it is in action.

Tie your servo lead to the end of the string, fish the nut down through the wing and pull the wire though… presto!

With the 3700 6S on board the plane now weighs approximately 7lbs. Figuring the original 5.5lb weight (approximately) and adding the on board fuel weight (maybe 3/4 of a lb) means it has gained maybe 3/4 of a lb flying weight. This is a bit more than I wanted but this plane flew so light that I think an extra couple pounds would leave a flyable airplane but I admit I would like to keep it as light as possible. I fully expect the power system to be able to handle up to about a 9lb airplane to at least “hover” if not “pull straight out of hover” levels so it may be that the extra weight won’t cause a problem.

So, with all that in mind, off to the field to meet up with several of my flying buddies and see how it goes. This is the third covering scheme on this aircraft. It started off base white with some red and green highlights and then after I needed to do some maintenance that caused much of the red and green to exit, I decided over a white bread sandwich that red, yellow and blue polka dots were the answer. Now along with the conversion to electric power, I went to a combination of transparent yellow, white and checkerboard black/white. While all had their appeal, the new scheme is my favorite.

The first flight session went remarkably well. The new hatch gives ample access to the battery area and there is plenty of room to shift the battery to achieve any desired balance point. In addition it appears to allow for plenty of air flow and the magnet (which I had been concerned about) is keeping the hatch in place nicely. After the last flight of the first day, I noticed the engine had started to move. Upon further investigation I realized just how loose it was! Here’s a shot showing some of the issue.

Not one of the mounts is still tight! Two of the back screws are completely lo0se inside the body and one of the front mount screws is missing! Yikes! In the back of my head, as I looked it over I remembered thinking I would go back later and apply thread locker and re-tighten these mount screws. Such is the danger of spreading out a job like this over close to a year span. Later never quite arrived… until after these first few flights. I got lucky that no damage resulted.

Once home, I pulled all the bolts and added some thread lock before re-tightening and she was ready to go again. Next trip proved that the airplane still flies as well as ever. The added weight doesn’t seem to hurt, maybe even helping in somewhat breezy conditions. It seems to fly well with anything from my smallest to largest 6S batteries, from 3200 to 4500mah. The 32/3300 packs give me a safe 5 minute or more flight with the 4500 netting an easy 15 minute flight. Short takeoffs with flaps are easily doable with slow lazy flight being the real forte of this old but dependable platform. The plane will pull straight up indefinitely with any of the packs as well so float flying, glider tow and carrying my RC jumper all seem doable. This is a great start.

The 300th flight… or just the latest maiden flight. Anyway you look at it, the Telemaster continues to perform well. When I opened that box of sticks ~15 years ago… who would have guessed!

April 30, 2016April 30, 2016

Carbon Z T-28 Recommended modification

As I may have previously mentioned, my flying buddy Kelly has one of the big E-Flite Carbon-Z T-28s. He has trouble wiping the smile off his face when he’s doing one of his usual low speed, flaps down, no bounce, land like a butterfly with sore feet touchdowns. With the AS3X keeping things even more stable on breezy days, this thing is just smoooooooooooooooth.

We initially had some nose gear issues (replaced) plus we added some Multiconnex and there was an issue with the flap hinge cracking (the flap/wing surface is the hinge) which was rectified with some Blenderm style wound tape/hinge tape. As I recall, when we applied the tape we also replaced the wing control linkages. Everything about them is undersized for this big aircraft and some folks have had small issues… others not so small.

So after an early spring flight recently, I guess we shouldn’t have been surprised when the rudder linkage lost it’s center pin. Funny thing is we bought the additional parts way back then but never installed them. It’s funny because it wasn’t the elevator that quit working!! Kelly was able to get the airplane safely back on the ground and I have just finished manufacturing the replacements for both the rudder and elevator.

As you can see the original is just plain scrawny looking and our replacement is only 2-56 rod. I consider even that small for this size plane but since they are so short (kudos for that E-Flite) 2-56 is sturdy enough I suppose.

The moral of the story however is if you are going to buy the big T-28, I would highly recommend you just go ahead and buy the hardware and replace all the flight linkages (6 short rods and your favorite clevises) before it even leaves the ground. One less thing to worry about!

While you’re at it, order the Multiconnex (see that post here) and really make it easy on yourself!

March 29, 2016

BD-5B first flight… and almost last!

Let me just start out stating… when you get to the part of the manual where Aeroworks tells you to balance the BD-5B… and even tells you definitively “Do not skip this step! ” I highly recommend you just move on and leave that ’till after the first flight. This way you will have a much more exciting first flight and it certainly is more likely that you will be able to more easily transport the aircraft back home… I doubt you’ll need a very big garbage bag to carry what’s left. Unless you really want to fly it twice without repairs? I guess that’s one way to go, but if you are a thrill seeker not-balancing is a great way to go! Ask me how I know.

Ok, so maybe you should balance the plane… I opted out of that part so let me tell you a bit about my maiden flight.

It was a nice Sunday morning with the temperature approaching 60 degrees at noon. The wind was a bit brisk for an airplane this small and light (8-12mph) but it was pretty close to being down the runway so not terrible. After loading up and securing a 3S 2200, I dutifully checked all control surfaces which responded appropriately. Thinking back I recalled that I had checked the throws against the recommended and dialing in my usual (fairly aggressive) exponential settings. I even made sure I was in low rates as I expected that at speed this little ship would probably be a bit more sensitive that most that I fly. All looked good so after a quick taxi out on our Geo-textile runway I lined up into the wind and started rolling.

It took a bit longer to rotate and a bit more elevator too (note to self… maybe check to make sure the nose isn’t pointed down slightly??) but then it jumped into the sky and with a little down elevator it… dove for the ground!! Yikes, pull back up and it’s climbing like crazy again… After letting it gain some altitude it became a constant battle to maintain altitude and herd the plane around while constantly trying to find a mix of throttle, elevator and attitude that would smooth out the roller coaster ride. After trying several combinations, and barely recovering from several stalls and one trip to the far reaches of my visual range, I realized it was time to admit that there was nothing that was going to keep this plane flying level and try to figure out a way to get it back down in one piece… or at least a minimum number! Having used every trick that 20 years of RC flying experience has taught me to get to this point… it was time to just line it up, react and hope for the best.

On approach now and trying to outguess the roller coaster ride. Keep in some throttle to avoid any stalls until about 3 feet off the ground and here comes the seemingly inevitable plunge… A last second drop of throttle and simultaneous full up elevator just as it hits the grass with only a little bit of nose first down angle. Holding my breath but it looks like nothing too serious. The structure is apparently intact with only the nose gear pointing back a bit more than when it left the ground. All in all, I wasn’t unhappy with the end result. Just with the mistake that made this such a fight!

Here, you can tell where the wheel contacted the bottom of the body!

And this is back of the nose gear mount… You can see the wood split and allowed the landing gear “bearing” to rotate back

You may also be able to see that there is a groove that looks like there may have been a retainer of some sort but if it was ever there… it’s long gone now. So I created one using a washer and after re-gluing and clamping the wood to restore it to perhaps stronger than original, here is the result.

When I reinstalled it, it seemed as good as new.

Finally, I put the airplane with battery installed up on the stand and not at all surprisingly it took 3 ounces of extra weight were the battery sits… which is far forward… to get it to balance as recommended. No wonder it was such a handful! That equates to about an inch behind the recommended balance point. So the lesson, in case I had any remaining doubts, is “Always double check the balance!“.

To correct this, I can either throw some lead in there or drop in some extra milliamps… Normally, I would go for more battery capacity but I have no use for 2500-3000 3S batteries so I will likely just secure some lead and give it another try. At this point I am lucky to have a plane to fly a second time so I don’t have much to lose. I used all the skill I had and then got just plain lucky to get it down in one piece. Looking forward to a much less frantic flight!

February 11, 2016

Aeroworks BD-5B – final touches and photos

Did some final work on the BD-5B this evening. Here are a couple photos… still pre-flight.

You can see the Pitot tube (which I love on this plane) along with some of the decals in this shot.

The rear end of this plane has some bite! That spinner (stock) is nice looking and the APC 7x6E looks great and certainly seems to produce some push… at least sitting on the bench.

This view shows the interior which is admittedly cramped and messy with all the goodies stuffed in the right places to make the balance come out as specified. You can see the 2200mah 3S LiPo on the right (tucked into the nose). The tubes coming out from underneath it are going to the pitot which feeds pressure to the airspeed sensor which is tucked in the back (left/upper in the picture) part of the area under the canopy. Hidden under the wires in that same area is the Variometer as well. The Castle speed controller is velcro’d on to the sidewall at the bottom center. At the bottom left of the photo just behind and below the speed controller is the telemetry receiver with the g force sensor attached to it. Just in front of the servos, just peaking out from under the servo tray is the Spektrum receiver.

This may be a bit of over instrumentation for this little bird but once I see the data I can always pull some or all of it out… except the pitot/airspeed as it just looks to good to lose it! Hurry up spring… I need to get a few flights on this bird. 🙂

February 6, 2016February 11, 2016

Aeroworks BD-5B… Assembly

Over the past couple weeks I’ve been working on several projects in the shop as the weather in Indiana has not been especially hospitable for flying. It has been quite a bit warmer than in most years past for the time of year but still not up to my standards for comfortable flying. Sometimes the temperature tempted me but those mild temps usually came with gusty strong winds so no flying lately for me. The good side of that is it gives me some time to work on some projects in the shop!

The latest is the Aeroworks BD-5B I just finished putting together. Mine is pretty close to stock with only a couple small exceptions. On mine there is a pitot tube sticking right out of the front of the nose… which is about the only visible difference. I actually like the look of it on this air frame. Other things that are not exactly per the directions are:

E-Flite DS76 servos instead of the specified Hitec 55s… I like the 55s just fine but as speedy as this thing is likely to be I like having extra precision and torque of a digital.
In addition to the pitot for airspeed, I also have a g force sensor, variometer (altitude and altitude rate of change), temp sensor around the HiMax motor body, and voltage monitor at the pack as well as from the receiver bus.
I chose the Himax 2815-1400 per the written instructions which seems to be rated for quite a bit less power than the E-flite motor now recommended on the Aeroworks web page… I hope it will be sufficient.

I still have to setup the control surface throws and exponential settings but everything else is pretty much buttoned up at this point. Centering and direction of surfaces has been set. I need to apply the decals and any other final cosmetics I want to add and I haven’t picked up the propeller yet, but that is about all that is keeping it from graduating from static model to aircraft at this point.

There were a few minor annoyances when assembling… Belly pan fit could have been better, Canopy could extend down just a bit more or maybe have a structural frame added to help it fit better/keep its shape. Also, I am not a huge fan of the extensive use of the EZ type connectors where only set screws are keeping the control rods from slipping… Much prefer ball joints, standard pin clevises, Z-bends… really most other connection types! I may think about replacing some of those either before the first flight or shortly after if all seems to go well. Just seems a bit “under” designed for a plane that is going to (I presume) move along briskly as I expect this to.

My bird is 29 ounces with a 3 cell 2200mah on board. With the Himax 2815-1400 and an APC 7x5E or similar, I expect about 150 watts which should give me decent performance… 85mph? more? We’ll see soon. I am a little concerned if this will be enough, plus I have never flown a pusher and the lack of airflow over the surfaces at lower speeds (no propwash) has me thinking that landing this might be a bit more interesting. Only one way to know for sure!

I have had this ARF sitting on my shelf for a couple years but until we got a geo-textile runway recently, it just would have been impossible to take off or land without risking damage. Now, with a place to fly, it is finally going to get its chance to soar! Once I dot the last i and cross the last t and get a flight or two I will take some actual pictures and do another post on how it actually flew.. or didn’t!!

January 17, 2016September 7, 2018

Balsa USA 1/4 Scale Cub – Part 4 More Mods – Rudder Shape.

Another modification I recently accomplished on the Cub is to reshape the rudder. Again, I have decided to just look at the general outline of the aircraft. I realize that when covered, some of the “ribs” will not be in the right place and anyone looking closely will be able to tell this but in the air I doubt anyone will be able to tell! They will see the outline, which I hope will at least be suggestive of the real Super Cub!

So here is what I did. After careful comparison of the shape of each I decided that just a bit of a change to the trailing edge of the rudder would take care of the primary difference between the J3 and the Super. Besides… I’m always happy to have a little more control surface! In order to accomplish this I decided I would just laminate a new trailing edge.

Here’s the process. To start I used my balsa stripper to create some strips of the proper width from a sheet of 1/16″ balsa. After a quick sand to make a slight flat spot at my “start” and “stop” areas I pinned down the rudder and used some thin CA to tack down one end of the first strip.

I then bent the stick to shape and tack glued down the other end and then trimmed of the remainder with my Xacto knife.

I then added two more layers of stripping. On each one I used some wood glue between the layers and then tacked it in place with pins and some thin CA to insure it didn’t move before the wood glue set.

Once finished with the third strip, I added some additional support at the point where the existing “ribs” would have contacted the trailing edge. With just a bit of sanding to round things off a bit and to taper the new material at the ends and mate it up with the existing structure, the final shape was complete.

The structure is quite strong and once covered I think most folks will find it to be a fair match to the outline of the real Super Cub.

There is plenty more to do in order to get this bird finished so… more to come!

January 2, 2016January 2, 2016

Freeze Fly fun with the GoPro Session and the Carbon Z Cub

Ever since I picked up my Carbon Z Cub and read the part in the manual about a GoPro camera mount… well I knew that was going to cost me a bunch of money… and I’m not talking about just the cost of the GoPro mount! When I saw that the GoPro Session had dropped to under $200… well there goes my RC budget!!

You can see the mount and camera at the following links if you now suddenly “need” one like I did!
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So over the holidays, with the help of some gift money I got all the goodies and by the time our annual freeze fly came around I was ready. Here is a compilation of my first two flights of 2016. One with the camera perched on the top mount and one with it hanging from the bottom.

By the time I got a chance to go up again the wind was a bit higher and I was less worried about the camera falling off… which it showed no signs of doing in spite of the 25 degree weather and the several loops, rolls, etc…

I used a peel and stick type of mount on the bottom of the airplane (on the plastic belly pan area) and the aforementioned mount from E-Flite for the top mount. I don’t think a tape on type would adhere to this foam well enough and it would certainly come lose if applied to a painted area as the paint on this airplane just isn’t that securely adhered! One of it’s few faults.

Here are a couple pics showing the mounting process for the top mount. in case you are interested in how that was done… First I sliced the foam so that the “fin” on the bottom of the mount could easily insert into the foam at the desired mount location. Placing the mount in place I outlined the area for it with red dry erase marker so that I could easily wipe it away later.

I then used tape to peel some paint off the selected area.

Once finished I wiped away the marker with the aid of some alcohol. Then I mixed up some epoxy and slathered it on the fin and the bottom of the mount generally. I then placed the mount on the prepared area, insuring the fin had glue applied and went snugly into the sliced open slot. Be sure the glue doesn’t get in the slot areas where the camera mount snaps in or this will all be for naught! Wait 30 minutes for the epoxy to dry (actually I wouldn’t trust it until it dried overnight) and there you have it.

I have noticed that the mount is tighter/works better if you insert the GoPro latch assembly from the back. The other direction works but it is looser and I’d be concerned the camera bouncing around and wiggling a bit would affect video quality. The true GoPro stick on mounts don’t seem to have this issue so just be aware.

Hope you enjoy the videos. I’m just getting used to video editing so am hoping to get even better stuff in the future!

December 26, 2015September 7, 2018

Balsa USA 1/4 Scale Cub – Part 3 More Mods – Flaps!!

Another modification I have decided to make on my Cub is to create functional flaps. Below you can see the inboard section of the port side wing.

After extending lines from the trailing edge of the outboard section and then accounting for the thickness of the trailing edge I made some cuts. Here is the result.

I then created a gauge from plywood with the proper angle to match the ailerons and marked and cut the flaps to match. Here you can see it in use.

Once all the ribs were cut to match this angle and length I attached a plate to the back edge in order to finish out the flap structure and allow for hinge attachment.

I then used a plane to match the size and angle I needed on the top and bottom edge of the flap surface.

I will probably need to add some blocks at the hinge attachments point inside the flaps before they are covered in order to insure a strong attachment point. When finished, the flaps look very similar to the ailerons. here you can see the leading edge of the flap (left) and aileron (right)

Aside from the hinge blocks, I will need to work out servo placement in the wing to actuate the flaps before I can call these finished but the major work is done now and overall I am pleased. The only drawback I see is that the angle of the leading edge of the flap surfaces (and the ailerons) are going to limit the throw to approximately 30 degrees of down travel. I feel like that is likely to be enough for my purposes but I’ll do a little research to see what I can determine.

One thought that occurred to me after finishing these up is that I may just plane the corner off of the bottom edge where it contacts the wing surface. I calculated that I could possibly gain another 10 degrees or so of travel this way. I’d be happy with that since the real aircraft maxes out at about 50 degrees… I’ll call that close enough.

While I’m thinking that over, I may finish up reshaping the tail feathers…