Aeroworks BD-5B – final touches and photos

Did some final work on the BD-5B this evening.  Here are a couple photos… still pre-flight.

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You can see the Pitot tube (which I love on this plane) along with some of the decals in this shot.

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The rear end of this plane has some bite!  That spinner (stock) is nice looking and the APC 7x6E looks great and certainly seems to produce some push… at least sitting on the bench.

2016-02-10 20.25.55-smallThis view shows the interior which is admittedly cramped and messy with all the goodies stuffed in the right places to make the balance come out as specified.  You can see the 2200mah 3S LiPo on the right (tucked into the nose).  The tubes coming out from underneath it are going to the pitot which feeds pressure to the airspeed sensor which is tucked in the back (left/upper in the picture) part of the area under the canopy.  Hidden under the wires in that same area is the Variometer as well.   The Castle speed controller is velcro’d on to the sidewall at the bottom center.  At the bottom left of the photo just behind and below the speed controller is the telemetry receiver with the g force sensor attached to it.  Just in front of the servos, just peaking out from under the servo tray is the Spektrum receiver.

This may be a bit of over instrumentation for this little bird but once I see the data I can always pull some or all of it out… except the pitot/airspeed as it just looks to good to lose it!  Hurry up spring… I need to get a few flights on this bird.  🙂

 

Aeroworks BD-5B… Assembly

Over the past couple weeks I’ve been working on several projects in the shop as the weather in Indiana has not been especially hospitable for flying.  It has been quite a bit warmer than in most years past for the time of year but still not up to my standards for comfortable flying.  Sometimes the temperature tempted me but those mild temps usually came with gusty strong winds so no flying lately for me.  The good side of that is it gives me some time to work on some projects in the shop!

The latest is the Aeroworks BD-5B I just finished putting together.  Mine is pretty close to stock with only a couple small exceptions.  On mine there is a pitot tube sticking right out of the front of the nose… which is about the only visible difference.  I actually like the look of it on this air frame.  Other things that are not exactly per the directions are:

  • E-Flite DS76 servos instead of the specified Hitec 55s…  I like the 55s just fine but as speedy as this thing is likely to be I like having extra precision and torque of a digital.
  • In addition to the pitot for airspeed, I also have a g force sensor, variometer (altitude and altitude rate of change), temp sensor around the HiMax motor body, and voltage monitor at the pack as well as from the receiver bus.
  • I chose the Himax 2815-1400 per the written instructions which seems to be rated for quite a bit less power than the E-flite motor now recommended on the Aeroworks web page…  I hope it will be sufficient.

I still have to setup the control surface throws and exponential settings but everything else is pretty much buttoned up at this point.  Centering and direction of surfaces has been set.  I need to apply the decals and any other final cosmetics I want to add and I haven’t picked up the propeller yet, but that is about all that is keeping it from graduating from static model to aircraft at this point.

There were a few minor annoyances when assembling… Belly pan fit could have been better, Canopy could extend down just a bit more or maybe have a structural frame added to help it fit better/keep its shape.  Also, I am not a huge fan of the extensive use of the EZ type connectors where only set screws are keeping the control rods from slipping…  Much prefer ball joints, standard pin clevises, Z-bends… really most other connection types!  I may think about replacing some of those either before the first flight or shortly after if all seems to go well.  Just seems a bit “under” designed for a plane that is going to (I presume) move along briskly as I expect this to.

My bird is 29 ounces with a 3 cell 2200mah on board.  With the Himax 2815-1400 and an APC 7x5E or similar, I expect about 150 watts which should give me decent performance… 85mph? more?  We’ll see soon.  I am a little concerned if this will be enough, plus I have never flown a pusher and the lack of airflow over the surfaces at lower speeds (no propwash) has me thinking that landing this might be a bit more interesting.  Only one way to know for sure!

I have had this ARF sitting on my shelf for a couple years but until we got a geo-textile runway recently, it just would have been impossible to take off or land without risking damage.  Now, with a place to fly, it is finally going to get its chance to soar!  Once I dot the last i and cross the last t and get a flight or two I will take some actual pictures and do another post on how it actually flew.. or didn’t!!

 

 

Freeze Fly fun with the GoPro Session and the Carbon Z Cub

Ever since I picked up my Carbon Z Cub and read the part in the manual about a GoPro camera mount… well I knew that was going to cost me a bunch of money… and I’m not talking about just the cost of the GoPro mount!  When I saw that the GoPro Session had dropped to under $200… well there goes my RC budget!!

You can see the mount and camera at the following links if you now suddenly “need” one like I did!
  
So over the holidays, with the help of some gift money I got all the goodies and by the time our annual freeze fly came around I was ready.  Here is a compilation of my first two flights of 2016.  One with the camera perched on the top mount and one with it hanging from the bottom.

By the time I got a chance to go up again the wind was a bit higher and I was less worried about the camera falling off… which it showed no signs of doing in spite of the 25 degree weather and the several loops, rolls, etc…

I used a peel and stick type of mount on the bottom of the airplane (on the plastic belly pan area) and the aforementioned mount from E-Flite for the top mount.  I don’t think a tape on type would adhere to this foam well enough and it would certainly come lose if applied to a painted area as the paint on this airplane just isn’t that securely adhered!  One of it’s few faults.

Here are a couple pics showing the mounting process for the top mount. in case you are interested in how that was done… First I sliced the foam so that the “fin” on the bottom of the mount could easily insert into the foam at the desired mount location.  Placing the mount in place I outlined the area for it with red dry erase marker so that I could easily wipe it away later.

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I then used tape to peel some paint off the selected area.

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Once finished I wiped away the marker with the aid of some alcohol.  Then I mixed up some epoxy and slathered it on the fin and the bottom of the mount generally.  I then placed the mount on the prepared area, insuring the fin had glue applied and went snugly into the sliced open slot.  Be sure the glue doesn’t get in the slot areas where the camera mount snaps in or this will all be for naught!  Wait 30 minutes for the epoxy to dry (actually I wouldn’t trust it until it dried overnight) and there you have it.

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I have noticed that the mount is tighter/works better if you insert the GoPro latch assembly from the back.  The other direction works but it is looser and I’d be concerned the camera bouncing around and wiggling a bit would affect video quality.  The true GoPro stick on mounts don’t seem to have this issue so just be aware.

Hope you enjoy the videos.  I’m just getting used to video editing so am hoping to get even better stuff in the future!

Updates… Carbon Cub motor, AR9000 repair

In an earlier post I related my misfortune with my Carbon Cub motor having failed.  Another covered the issue of channel cross interference in a Spektrum receiver.  Well I’m happy to report that both issues are now resolved.

The Carbon Cub motor was replaced with no charge by Horizon Hobby.  In fact it came back in something like 4 days which allowed me to get a test flight in at the club field before slapping the floats on and making a trip back down to Lake Lemon near Bloomington, IN for the fall float fly.  Once again the Cub performed great.

I would still recommend the Carbon Cub, but I would certainly advise keeping a close eye on the BL52 motor from E-flite.  I love the Power 60 on my Extra 260 but this motor is not that same quality in my opinion.

On the receiver, once again Horizon finally came through, and not only replaced but upgraded me to a new AR9020 DSMX receiver.  I was a tad disappointed the tech still couldn’t recreate the issue after I sent them a video and exact transmitter settings that allowed me to recreate the issue using both my Spectrum radios!  The important thing I suppose is they did right by the customer and that seems to be the way they tend to  operate which is not always the case with all businesses.  Kudos to Horizon on that front.

It’s getting to be late in the flying season here so expect to see some building projects, indoor/micro electrics and similar discussion soon.

 

 

 

Carbon Cub – Motor problems!!

I bought my cub back in late 2014 and started flying it more as the weather got warmer here in Indiana.  It has become my go to flyer and I probably have 100 flights or so on it by now. Unfortunately, yesterday it got put out of action by motor problems.

There have been 5 of the Carbon Cubs in the local club.

  • Cub #1 was sold as the pilot and the plane just didn’t get along… he could never get his to fly the way he wanted.  Just not his style I suppose.  I saw it flying at an event at another club this last weekend.  Doing great on floats and seeming to have no issues as all.
  • Cub #2 is still in action but doesn’t get much flying as the pilot has other aircraft he flies more often.  It had a motor issue within the first 20 flights or so and Horizon took care of it.  The new motor has only a few flights on it since being replaced.
  • Cub #3 crashed within the first dozen flights or so with smoke issuing from it mid-flight and a burned up ESC and Motor apparent upon inspection after the crash.  The airplane was heavily damaged in the crash.  That motor was dragging badly and apparently drew so much current it fried the ESC.  Owner of Cub #2 heard the engine grinding just before Cub #3 malfunctioned but didn’t even get time to speak up before the smoke started and it was all over.
  • Cub #4 had what appears to have been an ESC issue but I have not heard exactly what occurred.  I just know it crashed and is out of service for the time being.  It was flown pretty hard… this guy is a 3D pilot and he flew it that way.  Nothing wrong with that but it may have played a part in its demise.
  • Cub #5 is mine.  It has been flown a lot, but well treated and nothing happened recently that I would have expected to cause motor issues.  I have not flown it exceptionally hard, had a nose impact or done much of anything unusual.  Flew on floats a few days before, in heavy wind a day before that… Last flight was a long climb at mid-throttle using the wind to climb to near 1500′ AGL then a lazy dive punctuated with some spins down to about 100 feet.  Probably not as hard on it as my glider tows to 1000′ or so that I’ve done in the past.  When I pulled out to level and throttled up a bit I could hear the grinding and tried to limit throttle usage as I made a quick landing.  I can see that several  magnets have moved toward the rear of the motor and there is some gray residue inside the battery compartment where the airflow carried the shavings.  I will clean that up and hope for the best regarding the rest of the electronics that are in the path of the airflow!

That makes 3 (maybe 4) of the 5 local Carbon Z Cubs that have had a similar issue.  Horizon took excellent care of the owner of Cub 2 with a new motor sent out quickly.  Cub 3 was replaced after the owner sent it back in for diagnosis.  Not sure about the other one.  My motor is on the way back to them now.  I’m hoping this isn’t a representative sampling of the failure rates for these motors.  I have read about a few folks on the discussion groups having these same issues.  If Horizon takes care of me the way they have these other guys, I guess I would still recommend the plane to others but I will definitely tell folks to keep an eye on the motor.  A failure at the wrong time could certainly ruin your day!

I’ll update when I hear back from Horizon.  Hoping for a quick turn around… it’s less than 2 week’s ’till the next float fly!!

ElectroDynamics Multi-Connex… The answer for the Carbon-Z T-28 and many others.

After a few trips to the field with my buddy Kelly and his new Carbon Z T-28 we quickly became aware that assembly was a bit painful because of the number of servo wires that must be connected when attaching the wing and the shortness of the wires supplied in the T-28.  The length of the wires can be easily fixed but just connecting the 6 wires correctly and reliably time after time seemed an unnecessary annoyance to get to what the Carbon-Z does great… fly!

Another club member pointed out some multi-pin connectors often used in jets and after some quick searches we located the ElectroDynamics OneClik Multi-Connex.  Made for 2,3,4 and 5 servos connections these seemed to fit the bill so we placed an order.  Very shortly (even though we chose the most economical shipping method) we had two of these packs on the bench.

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Here’s the interior of the T-28 before we applied the OneClik solution.

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and likewise here is the wing root before the installation.2015-09-25 10.33.54

Here is the wing root after just sorting out the wires and plugging them in (in alphabetical order just for ease of remembering!) to the new One-Clik wiring harness.

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Similarly the interior of the fuselage (with a little wire combing to really clean things up as well).

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I applied a bit of combing to the wing wires as well and then with only two connectors to feed through the bottom of the fuselage it is suddenly very easy to assemble the T-28!  A  bit of Velcro (just a 1/4″ square of so on the connector and a small strip on the sidewalls) makes a nice “keeper” for the new connectors and completes the transformation!

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Admittedly, it helps that the T28 uses all “Y” connectors so there is no right or wrong for left or right sides so you can’t connect it wrong but for those that don’t… at least you’d only have to label right and left!!

The product has a nice snug fit, a great positive click connection and appears to be of a very high quality.  The pricing seems very reasonable and my only regret is that I didn’t order some of these for my Mustang!  Oh well, even with shipping these seem to be a bargain.

Since installing these, we have made a couple trips to the field and unlike previous trips, the setup time is less and we have not had a miss-connect (pretty much impossible now).  In the past this was a tedious task which has occasionally resulted in having to pull the wing and find an errant wire.  I think that is likely in the past.

This system will likely become one of my go to upgrades for all future multi-servo wing aircraft.  The ease of use and added security of the connection is a huge plus in my opinion and I highly recommend you give these a shot especially in those larger and more complicated craft like warbirds and the like with flaps, lights, and etc…

Battery Energy Sensor…

I recently got my hands on what seemed to be one of the first batch of the new Spektrum SPMA9605… known as the Flight Pack Battery Energy Sensor.  Where the earlier options had been a current sensor and a voltage sensing lead, the new sensor promised to not only read instantaneous current, but to keep accumulated current draw and pack temperature as well.

I installed it into my AeroWorks Extra 260 (60-90 size) powered by a Power 60 E-Flite motor by the expedient method of simply plugging in the two EC-3s and the xbus connector from the earlier installed current sensor.  Upon testing I was dismayed to find I could see no option to display the new information…  Only after fussing with it at the field for 30 minutes or so did I recall that I had declined to upgrade the software in my DX-18 months before, seeing no need for any of the fixes that centered mostly on helis and sail planes.  I especially did not want to rebind all of my aircraft since every previous version had required that.  The latest versions promise that it might not be necessary but I had not been interested in testing that assertion.

A couple days later (tonight in fact) I downloaded the latest version and after backing up the DX-18s memories… placed the updated file on the memory card and hit the proper keys…  After a couple of minutes the radio finished the process and miraculously upon power up, I had full control of the little Extra!

Even better, I now had the option to include the battery pack sensor in my display and set thresholds and alarms.  I set up appropriate levels and tested the current readings and all looked promising.  Since my built in temperature sensor was already in use monitoring the motor, I wanted to take advantage of the temperature capability of the new sensor.

Now, I became confused as the port labeled temperature on the side of the sensor was clearly 4 pins and the only temperature probe I had available was clearly a three wire connector… and actually only used two of them!  I chatted with a supposed expert on the Horizon web site and they had not physically seen the sensor and could not help, nor did the documentation that came with the unit so much as mention the temperature port.

I had nearly given up hope of finding an answer when I finally noticed the top label of the sensor was (at least apparently) applied upside down…  Where the label says X-Bus 1 and X-Bus 2 there is but one port and it is 3 pins…. X-Bus is a 4 pin connection.  On the opposite side is a label Temp and on that side are dual 4 pin ports…  Clearly these are the two X-Bus ports and the one 3 pin is the temp sensor!!  I had already plugged in the single X-Bus port into one of the two ports on the side labeled temp it could only fit on that side.  I went to look at pictures and realized that all must be this way!  Someone should tell the folks on the assembly line… 🙂

Here is a picture showing the labeling and the correct wiring.

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Turning in the radio after this revelation shows the following…

2015-09-09 21.06.20I now look forward to actually flying and testing the capacity measurement capability and am excited that I will no longer endanger my batteries by over discharging them.  The closest I could do before was to set a low voltage limit which often meant I would get a warning that would sound at anywhere from 5-35% of capacity remaining depending on throttle setting at the time.  I have great hopes that with this new capability I can set the alarm for a calculated 80% of battery capacity used and expect a much more accurate accounting.

I will post more as I get time to fly and test this capability.

T28 Carbon Z… Not mine but I got to fly it!

A couple weeks ago I got a call from my flying buddy, Kelly.  It went something like this.

“If I were to buy this T28 Carbon Z… could you store it for me?  Oh, and would you have a battery or two for me to try?  Oh, and could you program my DX-8 to work with this thing?… Not that I’m necessarily going to buy it!”  Right….

Of course I said, “Yes, yes, yes… and bring it over tonight and we’ll get it setup”.  As you can guess, he did and we did!  Here’s what we’ve learned after approximately a dozen flights.

First of all, we took the airplane out with a completely stock setup and tried a few flights with a couple 6S 4000mah battery and while the plane flew nice… it ate batteries at a prodigious rate!  We were lucky to get a 6 minute flight and the batteries were down to dangerously low levels to even get that much.  Horizon recommends 3500-5000mah batteries and claims 8 minutes flight times for a 5000.  We have since found that the 8 minute flight time on a 5000mah is a reasonable estimate however I can’t imagine anyone being happy with a 3500 pack in the airplane so don’t waste time or money on the smaller packs… just go straight to the 5000s… or maybe slightly larger!  Kelly got a few flights today with some new 6S 5300 Glaciers and was much happier with the 7-8 minute flights with 30% or so left on the packs!

The plane flies extremely smoothly with great stability and recent forays into the flaps down/low speed arena kept Kelly smiling all afternoon…  Also, flying at slower speeds helps extend the flight times!  Win/Win!

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So here’s a few quick tweaks we’ve applied to this point.

First, since we always try to set up a throttle safety/kill switch, that became the first order of business.  In order to get things to work correctly, the throttle cut had to be set to a value of 30…  a bit odd but it works great!  If you leave the default value and power up the airplane with the throttle cut enabled you get a surprise when you turn it off.  The prop starts to turn slowly… sort of a nice low idle!  Since plugging in the battery with the throttle kill set to off/run mode sort of misses the whole point, I recommend you set the kill to 30!  Of course this may vary with other models or types of radios.

Next, we needed to reverse the gear channel to get the switch working the directly we wanted on this bird.  That may sound like just a personal choice but I mention it because it may seem a bit confusing if you’ve not been lucky enough to mess with electric retracts before.  Since electric retracts tend to just stop when meeting a heavy resistance, you may not realize which position the switch is in until you take the load off the gear and flip the switch back and forth a couple times.  Not a big deal but take the time to play with the gear a bit… and who could resist that anyway… to see how this works and make sure all is happening the way you expect.

Third, in order to maximize flight time without endangering the batteries, we installed a telemetry module and attached the voltage sensing lead to the speed control connection.  You can do this a couple ways.  There are harnesses available from Horizon you can insert in line between the battery and speed control or you can simply strip back a little insulation on the speed control wires and tack solder them in… just be sure to protect the exposed wiring when you are done so no unexpected sparking and smoke is likely to happen!  The telemetry module runs fine off of the included receiver, which is great.  We set the warning tone to kick in at 20.5V…  Under load this seems to equate to about 30% battery left when it starts to beep.  This gives you very reasonable amount of flight time left over to make that perfect approach.

So, up to now, the T28 Carbon Z seems to be a hit…. as long as you stay with a large pack!  My limited flight testing indicates it flies… well, like a T28!  I prefer the Carbon-Z Cub but the T28 is the best AS3X equipped plane I’ve flown.  I’d love to try it without to compare.  It doesn’t have the power to weight ratio that the Cub does,  but it can climb quickly on the wing and do nice scale maneuvers.  It also looks beautiful in the air.

It certainly seems Horizon may have another great aircraft in the lineup.  It may seem a bit pricey… but you get retracts, a nicely detailed cockpit and a great looking and flying aircraft for the price with no real deficiencies that I’ve found…  right out of the box.  That is what an ARF should be.

 

Packs, Chargers, Power Supplies and more – Generators

After realizing that my budget generator would not run my new power supplies, I did some checking and found that this was a common issue with generators that did not include an inverter.  Without this feature, the generator does not create a proper sine wave AC output and some devices will not tolerate the “dirty” power thus created.  Of course Inverter generators are MUCH more expensive but also typically come with some very advantageous features as well… At least most do.

The things I thought were most important to consider aside from the clean power output included weight, noise limiting, some additional power (wattage), quality and of course price!  I quickly decided I wanted something in the 1500+ watt range, under 50 pounds if possible, and as good quality as I could get at the best price.

This quickly got me to a short list including Honda, Yamaha, Champion and a few others including a unit by Westinghouse.  The Honda and Yamaha seemed to be the real leaders among those who use these a lot but they are pricey as well.  If the extra money was the only way to get there, I’m willing but I won’t go there without good reason so I did some further comparison.  It also helped that one of the local club members has a Honda that I was able to borrow and use for a couple weeks.  In the end I took a chance on the Westinghouse for the following reasons.

While the Honda worked wonderfully, was quiet and is reportedly very reliable… I didn’t see enough positive difference to negate the $430 price delta between this and my eventual choice.  Similarly, the Yamaha was eliminated for the same reason.  The Champion, when I saw it at a local store, was a bit larger and heavier than I wanted and there were some reports, including some videos available on the web that claimed it was a significantly noisier than the Honda or Yamaha.  I’ve been around enough generators that I can attest to the fact that the power available from your generator can make you very popular at the field… but the noise level it creates can even more quickly make you a social pariah… relegated to the far reaches of the field.  I added a last minute addition to the possibilities when I saw that the local Harbor Freight offered a unit half the price of the Honda but quickly eliminated it when I saw it was listed as 20lbs heavier as well.  I can’t fly my airplanes from my bed with a thrown-out back and I don’t want to waste a bunch more space on a cart or other method to make it easier to move about.

In the end I chose the Westinghouse.  At 60% of the price but almost exactly the same weight and with reportedly similar sound levels it checked all the boxes.  1800W continuous/ 2200W peak power output, ~40lb, economy mode, low oil protection, etc…  I also appreciate the fact that while I realize that the Westinghouse name on the front is not indicative of the company that I recall from my youth… the engineering team behind this unit is located in Wisconsin and there are few opportunities in this hobby to support “locally” designed if not built products.  So here’s my experience with the Westinghouse WH2000iXLT.

First and foremost it does exactly what I purchased it to do.  My power supplies run with no issue behind the Westinghouse.  Further, it has started within 2 pulls or less every time so far.  In a side by side test, the difference in sound between the Westinghouse and my friend’s Honda is not discernible.  Some claimed the Westinghouse was louder and others said they could not tell a difference.  With the econo mode off on both units so that they ran at full RPM, I thought the Westinghouse was louder as well, though it was slight.  The only drawbacks I’ve seen so far are that both the oil and gas fill seems to be a bit more difficult than they need to be.  The oil fill is hidden under a hatch and pretty much requires a small extension spigot that comes with the generator.  The gas cap is smallish and the opening underneath even smaller so that it seemed difficult on first fill to get gas into the unit without slopping it all over the case but with the long run time between gas fills, I don’t expect to do it frequently.  Still it would be nice if it were easier.  Both these “complaints” are a bit nit picky as they aren’t going to be every day issues for me but I wanted to mention them for those who might consider this unit.

Overall I am very happy with the Westinghouse so far.  I’ve used it on 4 or 5 trips to the field so far and it is performing better than I expected and pretty much as advertised.  It’s light enough for me to move around easily, quiet and easily cranks out the power I need with quite a bit to spare… or share!  Barring problems, I am very please with the Westinghouse unit and even happier to have the extra $400 still in my wallet that I would have otherwise spent on the more expensive units.  I’m not normally very price conscious when it comes to my hobby gear as I enjoy a really good quality product and would rather pay extra for high quality than risk being disappointed but I have to say, so far, this is one bargain that seems to have come with no real drawbacks.  A win-win if ever I’ve seen one.

Here is a link to the Westinghouse on Amazon.  Check it out for yourself.