Category: Electrics

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Flying the E-Flite Timber

I have been putting the majority of my flights lately on my E-Flite Timber.  It’s a rare trip to the field where I don’t run 4 or 5 batteries through it and some days I may do 10… especially on days when I just want to relax and not spend a lot of time assembling or hauling out the larger/more complicated stuff.

The airplane is just fun if you enjoy STOL and just slow relaxed flight as well as being a fair platform for basic loops, rolls, and other basic aerobatic maneuvers.  Since I added the multi-connex (see this article for details on those) to make it a two plug operation to connect the wing, getting it up and running is quick and easy.

Here is a video compilation of Timber flights to give you an idea of the flight envelope.  This includes looking forward/backward and out over the starboard wing over the course of several flights.

I have read thousands of posts outlining all the things that are “wrong” with the Timber and warning of dire consequences if you don’t “fix” the aircraft immediately upon assembling it.  For the most part, in my experience (we have 5 of these at our club right now) if you simply follow directions and assemble the plane according to directions it will fly wonderfully!  Even the battery tray favored by some, I find to be unnecessary and possibly even inconvenient/limiting as the battery compartment isn’t overly large to start with and this just uses up more room!  Loved that same concept in my Carbon Cub but not for me on this one.

There are a very few things that I would recommend doing to make things easier or avoid issues…  

  1.  The only critical issue I’d be concerned with is to check the prop balance.  Most will never have an issue if they don’t do this but I’m sure there are some that the prop is so badly out of balance that the airplane will destroy itself due to vibration.  If you run the motor and hear a lot of vibration noises… balance the prop.
  2. Do something (lots of choices) to make taking the wings on and off a bit easier like the connectors I mentioned earlier.  Some folks keep the wires attached and build holders that allow for easy transport in that mode.  Some don’t mind the wires as is.
  3. I did a wax job on my plane using floor wax.  This is excellent for keeping the plane clean and protecting the finish.  Not a necessity but helps with longevity.  I have an article on this here.
  4. Take the screws for the float pull-pull connections and hide them somewhere as soon as you find them.  They have a habit of disappearing, especially if stored on the airplane when not being used!
  5. Finally, I did not even try using the floats with the standard rudder linkage.   I had a similar setup on a previous plane and found both the “fishing line” pull system and the spring return to be problematic at best.  I removed one rudder and rigged the other for pull-pull using standard pull-pull braided cable just as I did on the previous plane.  If you want to read about that modification on the other plane you can find it here.

That’s about it. 

I fly mine without the optional slats right now… though I may add them later and really wish they were removable (sigh).  Reports vary widely but on a good 2200mah 3S, I average about 6 minute flights with 30-40% left in the battery at landing.  You can burn up a battery in 4 minutes on lots of throttle or you can coax it closer to 8 minutes if you are gentle… I’m measuring time spent above 20% throttle so actual flight time is usually a couple minutes longer.

In closing, this is quickly becoming my go to flyer for quick and easy flight.  It has a fairly wide flight envelope, is easy to assemble and transport and with the lights and floats, very versatile.  It may take the place of my Parkzone T28 as my “gotta have one” foamy.  Get one soon!

I will do another article soon on the SAFE and AS3X modes of this airplane and its included receiver.  For now I wouldn’t let that get in the way if you are interested in this airplane.  It won’t hurt you and it may be just what you’ve been looking for.  If you want to put your own receiver in it or turn all that off, that is possible as well and the plane flies well without it too!

 

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Extreme Flight Laser 200 – Prop choices… Solved

After considering my options for  awhile I finally decided that I was not willing to continue to run my Laser’s power system with the Castle speed controller reporting the FET hitting 180 degrees or so and the total wattage showing peaks near 4100 watts from a system designed for 3500.  Castle advised that the speed controller might shut down around the 210 degree point so I have a little margin to work with but pulling a bit less power would hopefully cool things down, plus bring that top wattage down a bit which would hopefully also translate to a little more flight time and less strain on the batteries so…

First step was to hopefully reroute and improve airflow a bit.  The motor box in the Laser is as much open space as structure so there is a lot of air passing through over the batteries directly from the cowl openings to each side of the nose cone… but below where the speed controller sits may not be getting as much since it is not “in line” with those openings.  To help with this I taped off  the side openings of the motor box to hopefully force more air to pass underneath and over the heat sink of the speed controller.  I also re-routed my battery tie downs (Velcro strips) so that they were not covering any of the fins.

This seemed to have negligible impact so I decided the next logical step was to reduce prop load slightly.  The 22×8 flew awesome but the 20×8 dropped the speed controller temp by 50 degrees or so and the bird still had good power and dropped the battery draw markedly.  But of course I wanted more power!  The only place to go was in between and having already bought 4 props I decided it was time to do some “custom” trimming.

I first marked the tips of the 22×8 about a half inch off of each and then powered up the desktop sander and started making the new 21×8 custom Xoar prop.  I tried to maintain the basic tip shape and hand sanded the last bits to round edges and smooth things up.  I then applied some clear finger nail polish a sealer to the bare wood.

After a little drying time, I put the prop on the balancer and did a quick balance job and then bolted it back on.  Here is a before and after sample of flight data showing wattage, amps and temperature of the speed controller.  First the 22×8 stock prop.

You can see the temp of the FET nears 180 degrees (the gray line) and the wattage peaks over 4100 watts (the red line).  Note the current at almost 96 amps.

And now with the modified prop…

In this graph the temp peaks at just over 155 degrees Fahrenheit (gray) and the wattage now peaks at about 3800 very briefly (the red line).   Amps drawn peak around 86 (in yellow).

Even dropping back on power a bit, the plane has huge power… straight up snaps?  No problem.  Knife edge loops?  Sure!  Straight up out of a hover?  Piece of cake.  So I think this is it.  The prop of choice will be a Xoar 21×8, either cut down from a 22×8 or direct from the factory.

Now I can concentrate on airplane setup including battery position for best balance, mixing needed, etc…  Now I just need about 50 flights !

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Extreme Flight Laser 200 – Prop choices… still searching

How much is to much???

After a dozen flights on the EF Laser 200 and I was a bit unsure where to go next.  Don’t get me wrong, this is a really nice flying plane and the power system is outrageous…  3600 to 4100 watts peak depending on prop is just plane silly… and I love it!  The problem is that the manufacturer recommends the motor for 3500 watts and that only for short bursts.  I don’t want to abuse the motor so I need to keep a close eye on this.  Generally I’d say I need to stay with the smaller of the two props I have run (the 20×10) but of course there’s a compromise to be made.

When I went to purchase a prop I picked up a couple of the recommended sized (a 20×10 and 21×10) and bolted on the 20×10 for the early test flights.  After flying the 20×10 for a few flights I was unhappy with the prop due to excess speed and lack of braking.  What I needed was a larger diameter prop with less pitch.  I had the 21×10, but I’m pretty sure it would still be fast and even though larger diameter props typically add more drag when you decrease throttle I expect it wouldn’t be hugely better.  What I really needed was lower pitch.  According to my calculations a 22×8 is 3 or 4% less loading than the 21×10 and that big diameter would make a much better brake so I picked up one of those.

Testing with the new prop was very encouraging from a flight perspective.  The plane has much better in down line braking with unlimited vertical and reduced top speed.  Just what the pilot ordered!  Unfortunately, the peak amps hit something around 90A instead of 80 and 4000 plus watts instead of 3600 which means increased risk of frying the motor and less flight time as the battery has to provide more current when you reach for all that pull.  At least that’s the expectation based on the telemetry I have from a couple short flights.  Now it may be that the short bursts of power won’t really hurt the motor since I will rarely even push it that hard and if I stay out of the throttle the flight times may not be as bad as I think… but it may be wiser to give up a little power (no problem) and probably some of the braking and drop to a 21×8 or maybe even a 20×8.

Now the question becomes, just how much is too much and which Prop to try??? Each time I pick up another Xoar prop it’s a $25-$30 investment and if I swap for cheaper brand prop it may change the whole formula.  All props are NOT created equal and the shape and thickness varies between manufacturers so sticking with the Xoar is safest.  Besides, I have always enjoyed the Xoar propellers.  They seem to perform well and the quality of the wood and finish is top notch.  So what to do next??

What I’ve decided is to go back to the 22×8 and fly some more flights paying strict attention to battery life and trying to moderate my throttle through a set flight routine.  Probably will go up and fly the basic IMAC routine through two sequences and try to use only the throttle necessary to present the maneuvers properly.  Then I’ll land and check the battery levels and watch my temps on the speed controller and battery.  After a couple flights I should have an idea whether the prop will work or if I need to move down a little… or a lot!  As long as I don’t let the smoke out it should give me the info to pick the right alternative.

Another thought… If I do decide that I need to downsize a bit I could always order a 20×8 and simply trim the 22×8 down to a 21×8!!!  Then I could compare both options.  I’ve done a prop “trim” like this before to get the exact prop I want and with a little care and proper balancing it can work out well.

I once had a gas motor that really needed a 17×6 wide blade APC to perform the way I wanted.  Unfortunately they only made 16×6 and 18×6 in wide blades so… a bit of grinding and voila.. the worlds only APC 17×6 wide blade.  I ran that prop for a couple seasons and it was exactly what I wanted on that plane.  

If I go that way and the 21×8 “special” works well I can always order a 21×8 PJN factory standard with some confidence and just keep the special as a spare.  If it’s still a bit to much I can just move on to the 20×8 which is even less load than the 20×10 I’m currently running so I’m sure will give me longer flight times and protect the motor and speed controller… At least I’d only be buying one additional prop!

Wish me luck.  Hoping to get the test flights in tomorrow on the 22×8.  Praying for smoke free day!!

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Re-Programming the AR636a in the E-Flite Timber (Part II)

Part I of this post is here.

When I reconfigured my Spektrum AR636A and reloaded code to make it into (essentially) a standard AR636 receiver and used it as a non-AS3X model by setting all the gains to zero… all was well.  But when I then decided to add back in some AS3X functionality in certain flight modes I overlooked one important plot point.  Luckily while reading some forum posts on the subject of the Timber in general one comment about reversing the servo direction got me thinking.  So I ran up to the shop and checked and guess what?  My elevator and aileron were responding exactly the opposite of what I would want when I tested the AS3X reaction to uncommanded roll and pitch movements!!  This could have been disastrous had I flown in this mode.

Here’s the problem.  When I went back to what I’m calling “standard” receiver mode with no gains so no AS3X functionality at all, I decided to treat this just like every other receiver.  I relied on my transmitter to make all servo adjustments including centering, movement direction and speed, expo etc…. That’s great in standard mode.  The problem comes when I decided to re-institute a switchable AS3X mode.  With the servos all set to standard (not reversed) and the servos reversed as needed (Aileron and Elevator) in the transmitter the stick command work fine.  But, when the AS3X is on and sees an un-commanded pitch change it command the elevator in the opposite direction.  Unfortunately since it does not know the transmitter is acting in reverse it command what it thinks is the opposite direction from the pitch but (the way these servos are connected and linkage attached) is simply more of the same!!  This would result in a sudden increase in whatever uncommanded pitch occurred.  I’m guessing the plane would try to loop… continuously.  For the ailerons a constant roll would likely have occurred and in my case both would have happened and things might have gotten ugly from there.  Of course I could have overridden those command but as soon as I neutralized the sticks it would have just reoccurred and we would have been off to the races again.

Honestly my only shot to control the plane might have been if I could have reached the switch to shut off the AS3X function in time.  Since this likely would have occurred quickly after launch… I imagine there would have been some unscheduled contact with the earth and a lot of cursing and gnashing of teeth!

Lucky for me I have been reading a lot of posts and so this came to mind before an ugly incident forced me to learn the hard way!  So lessons… 

  1.  When working with the AS3X receivers, servo reversing is best done “on board”
  2. Make sure you have a known good working flight mode to use when changing these things.  Take off in that mode and test up high in the air so you have time to switch back to the known good mode if anything seems amiss.
  3. Don’t trust anything you read or are told if the person telling you has not flight tested his tweek/update or whatever!

OK, so quit wasting your time reading on line and go fly!!  ðŸ™‚

 

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E-Flite Timber

While most of my money and efforts have lately gone into a large electric Aerobat, I still love to have some simple, easy and fun to fly aircraft in the hangar as well for those times when time is limited or perhaps the trailer isn’t making the trip… something I can easily throw in car with a hand full of batteries and go fly for just an hour or two that is fun to fly and easy to transport as well as being economical.

After seeing a couple of Timbers showing up at the field and being forced to fly them a couple times I thought it might be time to expand my fleet in this area.  The floats being included and the ability to fly using the most common battery I have (2100-2700 3S lipo) combined with a reasonable price made it even more tempting.  My original T28 is my go to in this area but while it is a great flyer, STOL and rough field handling are not among its virtues.

I initially went looking for the PNP as I’m not typically a big fan of AS3X (or gyros of any sort) in a plane that is already large enough and stable enough to handle most conditions with only modest input from the pilot, but my local shop had a BNF at the price of the PNP and no BNF models in stock so I picked it up.  Here’s a link in case you need one!

My first thought was to simply pull the receiver and drop in a non AS3X model before I even put a battery in the thing, however that plan was foiled when I picked up the wrong receiver at the hobby store so I decided to leave it be for now.  In fact, what I did was to go out on my first flights with a completely stock setup.  Since I have a DX18, I followed the instructions in the manual for the switchable SAFE select mode and the only other option I chose was to NOT install the slats at this point.  With those choices made, my first trip to the field was destined to be purely stock.

Before I get to the flying, let me talk about fit and finish, ease of assembly, etc…  First, the Timber is NOT a scale plane… there is no full scale version of this plane.  It is designed from the start as purely an RC craft so there is no comparison to how it looks versus the “real” plane.  This is as real as it gets!  So best comparisons are to other foamy type airplanes.  So here is the good and the bad for the model I got.

First, the edges of the plane in many places had what I would call “excess foam”.  Ever overfill the waffle iron?  Then you know what I’m talking about.  Glue also appeared in some places beyond where you would want it and I saw a few spots where there didn’t appear to be any that I would have thought would have had it…  On the aircraft itself, there were quite a few dings, dents and scratches.  None very bad, no crushing or gouges that were worth worrying about in my book at least.  Not the prettiest finish, but nothing that would affect flight.  Unfortunately, the floats didn’t fare as well.  One of the floats had a spot where it had been crushed with the tape that was wrapped around the packing that contained it and the whole aft end of the float is warped downward 10-15 degrees from that point back!  It looks like they were maybe wrapped while the foam was still warm and pliable??  That float is back at the hobby shop awaiting replacement.

All of this is disappointing as it just seems to indicate either a lack of concern or effort on the assembly line and a lack of quality control… or perhaps its just not something the Horizon team cares about.  Yes, I know it’s only a ~$250 plane… made of foam… etc… etc… but I’m a believer that you just don’t do things half way or with lower quality when doing it right just isn’t that hard…  I’m not even sure it would really cost much either.  There are other products from E-Flite that exhibit NONE of these issues out of the box.  Why not this one?  Again, I am talking fit and finish here.  Other than the float damage, none of this is worrisome when it comes to flight.

I went through the manual and easily programmed my DX18 with the recommended settings and everything worked as advertised.  All I added was the use of the throttle cut, assigned to my usual switch and that part was all ready.

The one issue I found that did concern me as far as flying and staying together was the way the motor felt and sounded out of the box.  When I turned the prop, it felt and sounded like there was something dragging occasionally or a bearing with a high spot or ????  I took the nose apart, removed the motor, examined it, blew some air through it, etc… Found nothing.  From here on, I’m counting on Horizon’s great service if something untoward occurs.  On to flying…

For a maiden flight, the day was… pretty much crap!  The wind was somewhat across the runway (not down it as we all hope for) and was a solid 10-15 with gusts to 20, maybe 25.  I stalled, did some battery charging etc… and then when the wind appeared to be  dropping a bit, I went out and took her up.

For the first flight I kept the plane in the full SAFE mode and it handled the wind phenomenally well.  I have to say it was fun and I forgot about the fit and finish issues and even that I was in safe mode for a minute or two… until I tried to pull a loop… tried again… Ahh!!!  SAFE mode!  SAFE from fun for me… 🙂

It appeared anything beyond about 60-75 degrees of aileron bank or more than “almost” vertical  in pitch are prohibited by the SAFE system.  That’s not a terrible thing… probably very helpful for a new pilot and much better than some of the settings I’ve seen on previous aircraft that were so limited they seemed almost uncontrollable due to lack of authority on the surfaces!  Some are so limited that they are hard to fly in any wind as they take forever to turn due to lack of available throw.  Not so the Timber.  It was still very controllable and with the added stabilization it handled the wind very well.

I quickly found the SAFE switch and shut that off and was now very able to maneuver the Timber and do all sorts of rolls, loops etc… some wind gusts aided in some new “unnamed” maneuvers… par for the course with this kind of gusty conditions, but recovery was quick and easy… .

I even added SAFE back in for the first landing and it was remarkably smooth considering the breezy conditions.  I’m not a big proponent of using this type of aid on a regular basis but I’m OK with it if it allows a pilot to get in the air and back down again (you can always turn it off when that nasty, hard ground is far enough below) as nothing beats actual stick time to make you a better pilot.  Once you can do good landings with SAFE, I’d encourage switching it off and preceding to do these landings with only AS3X enabled.  Continue the progression and eventually you can do the same things with no aid at all.  Then you are really flying.  It doesn’t hurt to have some level of safety blanket, as long as you don’t allow it to impede your progress.  That’s assuming you want to progress to completely controlling your Timber or controlling other aircraft that may not have these abilities.

Over the next week I was able to get out on two more occasions.  Both times were the last few hours of daylight and both involved quite a bit of wind.  I’m mostly flown with SAFE off but the AS3X still at factory settings.  I must say the little Timber is a very capable STOL aircraft and I have spent most of my time during each flight (usually 5 minutes on a 2200mah and 7 with a 2700) over the course of probably 15 flights, doing lots of touch and go’s, landings and takeoffs with all combination of flap settings and wind conditions.  I have thoroughly enjoyed flying this little plane.  I’ve also managed extended flight while inverted, stall turns, loops, rolls, teardrops, immelmans, split S, etc…

Here she is while still stock right before it got to dark to fly at all… about 9:30PM in mid-June in Indiana.

As you can see, those lights are quite bright and they gave me confidence to fly for 30 minutes or so each evening when I would have never put anything else in the air!  Love the light package… it really adds a dimension to flying the Timber that wasn’t available with my other aircraft.

I noticed after 10 flights or so… hadn’t checked earlier… that my motor has apparently smoothed out.  No grinding or catches when it runs now.  Hope that means I will escape any motor problems.

Next, I intend to see about reprogramming the AR636A so I can fly the Timber without stabilization.  My flying buddy Gary has one with a standard non-AS3X receiver and it seems to fly well so I’m anxious to see how much of what I’ve experienced is basic air frame design and how much is the AS3X system helping out.  In other planes I’ve flown with AS3X, it always seems to me that there is something a little odd about how they fly.  To locked in or a bit “stiff” feeling like the plane is just not quite making the mistakes I normally expect to see when I fly!  So far the Timber hasn’t left that impression but I want to honestly fly the bird and see what it’s like.  There is a bit of contradictory information out there about whether it is possible to reprogram a 636a or not.  If not, it may be time to move to a non-AS3X receiver.  I don’t expect that stabilization is probably necessary for this craft to fly well, so looking forward to that.

Also looking for a way to make the slats a quick install/remove.  I have not used them at all yet, but I’d like to try without a permanent installation.  I have an idea for stiffening and using some magnets…  more to come.

Finally, I will likely soon do some adjustments to the control surface throws, similar to what I’ve done on others like my ParkZone T-28… which is to say maximum available throws without modifying anything and adding expo to keep things smooth.  I especially would like to have more rudder as knife edge flight is pretty sad at this point.

All in all, so far the Timber is a nice flying, if not highest build quality, aircraft.  I’m looking forward to many more fun evenings in the twilight!  Time to try to make a few adjustments and see how it works.

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Extreme Flight Laser 200 – First flights and Telemetry reports from the speed controller

Saturday was my first 2 flights on the new Extreme Flight Laser 200.  It’s not even quite “finished” but I deemed if safe to fly and took it out for the clubs “Electric Only Fly”.

All I can say is WOW!  The plane flew very well with perhaps 2 clicks of aileron trim and nothing else…  I need to experiment with balance as I think I had the batteries a bit to far forward as the nose wanted to fall  during inverted flight or inverted 45 degree up lines… but otherwise the Laser drew a line just like it’s namesake.  It also flew light while still handling a bit of wind without issues. The smooth power from the 35cc Xpwr/Castle 120HV and 12S 4500 45C Pulse battery setup was awesome to behold.  Using a Xoar 20×10 for these first flights and the prop noise is minimal.  I love being able to hear that and the air over the air frame instead of the din of a gas motor.

The 4500mah Pulse batteries seem to be able to give me about 7 minutes of mixed IMAC style flying and time to land with 35% or so of capacity left over… which is sufficient though I might wish for a tad more flight time.  I’m thinking of moving to 5000s as the plane only weighs 11lbs 4oz +/- so I think an extra 4-6oz of battery pack wouldn’t make a big difference.

A new item of note that I am running in this bird is the Castle Creations Telemetry Link for Xbus.  Here’s a link if you have to have one after reading this:

This nifty gadget feeds back information like the current draw, voltage, watts, RPM and FET temperature based on information directly from the speed controller.  Getting all this information from a standard Spektrum telemetry setup required a lot more work and several sensors that cost a lot more than this module.  Based on the information it provided I was able to get pretty graphs like this out of my telemetry viewing program on my PC:

Some interesting information can be had by examining this data closely… for instance at on peak point during the flight, the motor was pulling around 86 Amps!  This was at a point just a minute or two before landing and this caused the battery to sag to about 40.5 Volts.  At this point the prop was turning slightly above 11,300 rpm!  At another point after some sustained mid-throttle flight, the FET on the speed controller reached 145 degrees Fahrenheit.  The reported max power was just over 3600 watts!  For this light an aircraft that is almost insane… which is fine with me!  I’m not in full throttle very often and certainly won’t need to be with this bird.  To quote an old friend “To much power is almost enough.”

The FET temp reading tells me that the 20×10 Xoar is not over stressing the electrical system when flown in this manner though the RPMs seem a bit high so perhaps the 21×10 or 22×8 that I have may be more suitable.  It will be fascinating to run those and get some comparison data.  This kind of data is priceless when you consider it is going to allow me to choose a propeller that maximizes speed or torque or battery life as I see fit and to insure that I’m keeping the power system in a “happy place” while doing so.  Not having to worry about the health of that system is going to keep money in my pocket (not buying more components to replace the burnt out ones!) and give me one less thing to be concerned about.  That makes me happy.

I will update some more and do some comparisons as I try out more/different prop choices.  I’m really hoping the 22×8 works well as I’m thinking that it will give me more low end pull and less speed overall (which is fine with me) while giving me a bit more down line braking effect…  time will tell.

So far, I’m loving the information this little module provides.

I’m also using the arming lockout key from Castle.  This little gadget signals the speed controller to enter the lockout state whenever the key is inserted into the socket.  It’s another layer of security for the very powerful motor and attached prop.  Between this and the throttle cut I have programmed into my transmitter, I feel much more safe plugging in the two 6S packs!  This system is nearing the 5HP level and spinning a 20 inch prop at 11000 plus RPM.  What that can do to unprotected hands, arms, legs, etc… is worth considering.  An extra measure of safety is always welcome.

 

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Extreme Flight 74″ Laser – Build nearly complete

The Extrem Flight Laser has been in the shop now for about a month and I’m finally getting close to flying status!  My final items to complete are to get the speed controller and receiver installed, do the radio setup and then go back through and do final checks on bolt tightening, gluing any joints that need it and seal all the hinge gaps.

Overall, the instructions and included hardware seem to be good quality and short of flying it, I am pretty happy with it so far.  I’m going to get a bit nit picky over the next couple of paragraphs in hopes that this will help anyone else who is working on putting together.  There are a few shortcomings in the instructions worth noting and a couple tips I can pass on as far as what to do (or not) that may prove useful.   So here is my summary of the good, the bad and the ugly of building this ARF.

First off, when installing the control horns you need to remove some covering in order to get a good glue bond.  The instructions for this are pretty good but I would recommend a couple of ways to make this easier.  First, when drawing around the control horn base in order to know where to cut, I suggest a white board marker.  They are easier to wipe off with just some alcohol or window cleaner.  Also when removing the covering I remove only to just inside the line so that the base plate actually slightly covers the edge of the material.  This helps ensure that the material will never peal up around the horn and the result looks very professional.  Secondly, not only here but pretty much anywhere you need to remove covering… I highly recommend use of a soldering iron.  With minimal practice you can move at a rate that doesn’t char the wood underneath but just melts the covering.  It also seals down the edge as you go.  I find this method far superior to use of a razor blade or Xacto knife.  Extreme Flight’s manual mentions this option in one place but then often says to use a blade in many others.  I’d stick with the Soldering iron in pretty much all cases.

While on the subject of control horns, for some reason I got two sets of of rudder horns with no explanation as to why or what I might want them for… still don’t know.  In any case, I would install these dry and mark them once you measure for proper centering.  The “barb” on one side that I thought would end up against one side of the rudder to aid in alignment… does not seem to be any such thing and I don’t know why it is even there…  Just be cautious that you get the centering correct here.

One preference/ nitpick of mine is the tail gear mounting method.  I’m used to having blind nuts embedded but this gear mounts only with wood screws.  I would love to have the blind nuts as I think they result in a stronger mount.  Hopefully this mounting method will be strong enough.

The next note I made while building was regarding the rudder pull-pull mechanism.  First, if you have never put one of these together before you should go find a step by step instruction set that will walk you through everything you need to know ’cause what is in the manual for the Laser is not that!  If you’ve done a couple you probably will have no issue with this one.  One odd note is that they specify to crimp the aluminum tube with side cutters???  If your side cutters are worth a darn and you squeeze firmly you will end up cutting that tube and probably the cables themselves clean through.  A standard pair of pliers works quite well, thank you.  Don’t use side cutters!

Next, I noted that the instructions for installing the wheel pants had a couple of shortcomings.  First, when they have you drill a hole, they do not tell you what size hole… you can figure it out of course but it would be nice if they just told you… sorry I didn’t write it down or I would have provided that here (silly me).  Also when they have you install the blind nuts it required an excessive amount of force to get the little sharp prongs to push into the wood because the back of the wood inside the wheel pant has a fairly heavy coating of fiberglass/resin which necessitated a pair of channel locks to get the prongs to penetrate!  I felt like I was risking a good amount of damage when I did this but that is what it took to get them to embed flat…  and you need it to lay flat to keep it from rubbing against the rim/tire.

One error I ran into as I mounted the motor is the stated distance from the front face of the motor box to drive washer should be 6-3/8″… My ruler says it is actually 5-3/8″!  If you extend it to 6-3/8″ the cowl will not go back far enough to mount.  Luckily, I checked before I got things mounted.

OK, that’s about it.  Everything else seemed straight forward to me and I appreciated the packaging of the parts (individual bags with labels for each set of pieces).

I’m looking forward to getting started flying soon and the real test will be flying characteristics and how well she holds up over time.  Looking forward to messing with setups, props, batteries and telemetry to see what works best.

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Motion RC P-38 first flights… and the resulting damage!

A few days ago, the two P-38s finally got to go visit the field.  The last couple adjustments that were needed seemed to be finished up and there was nothing left but to fly them!  Several club members gathered to watch the inaugural flights.

My green P-38 with the addition of invasion striped on the wings was first to go.  I had 2x3300mah batteries on board pushed all the way back as a best guess center of gravity.  The final run up up of each individual motor/speed controller was accomplished in the pit area just before taxi out for take off.  I must say the wire connections to each wing are somewhat tedious.  There is not much extra wire to make connections and my hands are not very small.  Also the lighting connectors are NOT polarized plugs so you also have to be very cautious of plugging those in with the proper polarity.    Then the tedious stuffing of the wires into the small opening (individually… there isn’t room to do them all at once) while simultaneously sliding the wing panel onto the body.  As I said, tedious.  Of course you have to do this upside down and I was trying to be very careful not to put any pressure on the canopy (removed that) or the props (suspended off the edge of the table).

 

Finally, all assembled and I immediately noticed that it was a bit difficult to turn left on the ground… I suspect the cross wind from the right hitting those two big verticals is responsible for that!  But she lifted off pretty quickly.  I had to do quite a bit of aileron trim to keep it level and some elevator trim to keep the nose up.  I’m betting the aileron trim is a result of the inboard wing edge that is warped downward on the one side.  Finally, all level and flying smoothly I started to pull a loop but decide not to since it appeared that my elevator travel was a bit low and there was not a blazing amount of spare power either.  No big deal, I’d been flying for a few minutes so I might have been getting some sag from the batteries by then, so I just decided to get back on the ground.  First pass I came in without flaps and it was sinking awfully quick while still flying pretty fast so I went around and dropped half flaps and tried again.  My guess for elevator mix must have been about right and I came in a bit slower but still with a pretty fast sink rate…  That made for a moderate “hop” and then too much speed as I ran off our Geotex into the grass at a good clip.  That arrested the speed within another 15 feet or so but as it did so, one of the mains folded up!!  That was very disappointing as I really thought it wasn’t a terrible landing for the first attempt.

Here’s the retract with a bit of foam still attached… but not much.

And here’s the foam socket with (apparently) very little glue.

Further inspection showed that the gear mount had separated from the foam from (in my opinion) a notable lack of glue…  There didn’t seem to be any other damage but I was obviously done for the day.  I try to minimize repairs at the field, generally opting for moving on to another plane if the program is just casual flying so I went back to help Kelly work on his P-38.  Another impression I had after the flight was that the plane flew somewhat “heavy”… i.e. it flew like a warbird.  I was hoping for a bit more of a “foamy” feel to the plane but it was not totally unexpected with the modest wing area compared to the weight of this airplane.  I had read where some folks talked about it flying fairly light on the wing and coming in slow but that was NOT my experience.  Those guys must be hard core warbird flyers who are accustomed to the heavy wing loading of that type of plane.  For me, it seemed heavy but I don’t think I’d want to fly much less battery capacity as flights would get very short I would think.  Based on just this flight, I don’t think my 3300s will get me much more than 6 minutes, but I’ll have to fly a few more to be sure.  I wasn’t paying strict attention to that with all the other maiden flight checks and nerves going on.  Finally, the P-38 does not like to turn with just aileron.  It needs either some rudder mix or at least a pilot with a left thumb that doesn’t fall asleep from lack of use once airborne!  I fly a few other planes that like rudder in a turn (a Carbon-Z Cub, a Telemaster) so I adapted to that fairly quickly, though it will take a bit of flying to get just the right feel for it.

Moving on to Kelly’s P-38 in “Pacific Silver” we went through the same preparations and then he was off the deck.  In short order he was having problems getting the plane to turn and there were a couple times when it looked like he might not be able to control it to get it back down safely.  Finally, he was able to herd it onto the Geotex with a fairly fast but mild landing.  He too ran off into the grass and immediately one of his main retracts folded as well!  This aircraft definitely isn’t built for any but the smoothest runways!

Later inspection showed his retract to have a pitiful amount of glue as well, so apparently I didn’t just get the one built on a Friday!  Between the battle to keep the plane airborne… it seemed to be constantly yawing to one side… and the retract issue, Kelly was very disappointed with this aircraft.  He was running a single 5300mah battery and it certainly appeared that his airplane flew similarly to mine as far as landing speed and overall handling even with the somewhat lighter pack.

I am working to replace the retracts in both planes with a bit more generous portion of Foam-Tac and hoping we can keep those in place.  We are extending the Geotex runway soon at our club field so hopefully we won’t run off quite so easily anyway but it is disappointing that these are so fragile.

I have a theory on why Kelly’s plane seemed to have a serious yaw issue… more on that after some investigation.  So far, neither of us is particularly fond of the P-38s.  Hopefully we can work out the wrinkles and get in some more satisfying flights soon.

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Extreme Flight 74″ Laser Electric… the Purchase is made.

Well for the last couple years since I sold my 55cc gas powered Wild Hare Slick 540, I’ve really missed having a big aerobatic aircraft.  I even considered swapping it to electric before I sold it but 50cc powered electric aircraft were a bit above anything I considered “reasonable” and I was moving toward converting to an all electric fleet and needed some seed money to make it happen.  Twenty cc equivalent power was near the limit at the time, at least in my mind.  Now I know that is an entirely personal measurement, but to me the battery power needed, cost of the motor, charging gear required, etc… were just a bit beyond what I wanted to take on to get to a 30cc or above power system.  Pretty much no one in the mainstream offered such a system and you really were getting a bit out on a limb to put something together that would perform well at those higher power levels.  If you purchased the wrong component the performance would suffer and so would your wallet, in a big way.  Plus flight times were woefully short on the systems I saw that I thought showed truly equivalent performance to for my big Slick.

Fast forward to March 2017 and I am looking again for a bigger E powered aerobatic aircraft.  I was shocked to hear that Aeroworks had gone the way of the dinosaur… I was flying a 90 size Extra of theirs that I loved but it still flew to “small”… so out the window went my idea of a 30cc size upgrade for that same Extra 260 which they made in several sizes.  With 30cc equivalent seeming to be a new sweet spot for E flight, I started looking around.  After a bit of searching I re-discovered Extreme Flight.  They not only continued to build their own brand but they had gobbled up 3DHS and some others and some of the newer line of planes intended for E power looked nice.  When I found they had a (by all accounts) high quality matching power system I got serious and homed in on what I thought would fit the bill.

I pretty quickly fell in love with the Blue and Yellow scheme on the 74” Laser and I couldn’t believe how light this plane was reported to be for it’s size!  

With the 35cc sized Xpwr motor on board the plane would be well over 250 and possibly close to 300 watts per pound!!  Even though I’m no 3D pilot, I do enjoy flying IMAC style flights and having the power to pull into a vertical and only then roll into the power for a nice constant speed line is something I never get tired of.  To do it consistently requires 3D level power and a little practice time.  This combo looked like it would provide for that possibility… only I would be the limiting factor!  It may not be quite the 87″ Edge, but it could be close enough to scratch that itch and give me the smooth lines that smaller planes just can’t provide.

So with a few days to spare I made the call and had the guys at Extreme Flight put one on the truck for me to pick up at the Toledo “Weak Signals” show.  Picking it up there would save me almost $150 in shipping and justify making the 4-5 hr trip (one way).  Of course I was always going to the show anyway but now I had a really good reason!!  Going to the show was going to save me money.  Or at least that is the way I explained it to my oh-so-understanding wife!

Long story short, I brought home not only the aircraft but the standoffs, servo arms, a full set of Hitec 7954SH servos, a pair of LiPo batteries, a Castle Edge HV-120, and spinner.  Yep, pretty close to the full boat!  Since then I have picked up some props, a Castle Xbus Telemetry Link and couple other little items I need to get it in the air.  This week I have begun assembly and will post more as I get it all together.  

My expectations are high and I hope it performs just half as well for me as Jase makes it look on the videos… of course it’s obvious Mr. Dussia could fly a brick with an .049 on it and make it look better than my best efforts with any aircraft I own, but it was nice to talk to him there in the booth and get his advice on the right equipment to pair with this air frame.

I’ll post some more as I do more of the build to update how it’s going and share my experiences with the Extreme Flight 74″ Laser.

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Freewing 80mm Super Scorpion EDF Jet

Recently, My flying buddy Martin has decided to branch out into some ducted fan electric craft and one of his first is the Freewing  80m Super Scorpion from Motion RC.  Martin had the new aircraft shipped to my shop and today he came by and we did most of the assembly.  

The first observation I would make is that we spent about 4 hours today doing assembly and we got to the point where all we need to do is plug in the receiver and set the throws and it will be ready to roll.  Maybe we could have cut it back a bit but don’t believe the place on the website that says assembly time is 30 minutes!  Just scroll on down where it says 3 hours and you are in the ballpark.  The other specs listed on the site seem to be accurate, even down to the ready to fly weight.  Measured with a 4500 6S on board, we measured Martin’s aircraft as just a couple of ounces over 5 lbs just as the web site reports.

Similar to the manual for the P-38s that I recently got from Motion RC, there is a lot of “stuff” in this document that describes assembly that is already done out of the box.  This is distracting and it sometimes makes it hard to figure out what the next “required” step is in the assembly process.  Unlike the P-38 this model however does not have a full assembly video on the web site and luckily it isn’t needed as there just aren’t that many pieces and assembly is not all that complicated.  Just walk through the manual and keep skipping forward when you read the parts that are unneeded and you’ll have little trouble.

There are only a couple of places where I can give you some advice that might not be obvious. 

  • When you put the screws in to attach the wings to the body, be careful to route the wires appropriately then be very careful that the screws are actually going into the holes in the plastic.  The best way to avoid this is to just start each before you fully tighten any.  A simple thing, but easily overlooked.
  • When you attach the vertical fin, insert the front screw first but only a couple turns.  Then do the side screw and tighten both down before installing the screw from the top.  Otherwise it is very difficult to get the top screw to hit the pre-drilled hole in the wood plate that it attaches to.

And a critique or two for the manufacturer and distributor.

  • Somehow there were only 2 of the 2:1 servo connectors and 1 3:1 servo connector included in the kit, even though the manual clearly indicates there should be 3 of the 2:1 connectors.
  • On the website it is implied that you can remove the wings and elevators and the vertical stabs (presumably) in order to carry it to/from the flying field.  “Removable wings and vertical stabilizers for convenient transport”.  Perhaps this could be done a few times in order to ship the aircraft from place to place, but these self tapping screws and plastic and wood into which they are screwed are not what I would expect if this were actually the case.  I would expect most folks are only going to take these screws back out if a repair is needed.  Anyone who needs to take this aircraft apart in order to get it to and from their flying field should look for a better alternative.

Since the high today in our area was 38 degrees (about 20 degrees below my minimum standard for comfortable flying) we don’t yet know how it flies but here are some pictures of how it looks.  Some highlights I would point out are the nice shock absorbing struts, the cockpit detail and the attractive and hopefully easy to see color scheme.  Though the aircraft is not quite as large as Martin had assumed, I think he is still fairly happy with the overall look and build quality of the aircraft.

Here is the nose gear showing the nice shock absorbing strut

 

Here’s a shot of the actual functioning inlet that feeds air to the ducted fan

  

And the finished product.

Looking forward to see how it flies.

 

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