Motion RC P-38 first flights… and the resulting damage!

A few days ago, the two P-38s finally got to go visit the field.  The last couple adjustments that were needed seemed to be finished up and there was nothing left but to fly them!  Several club members gathered to watch the inaugural flights.

My green P-38 with the addition of invasion striped on the wings was first to go.  I had 2x3300mah batteries on board pushed all the way back as a best guess center of gravity.  The final run up up of each individual motor/speed controller was accomplished in the pit area just before taxi out for take off.  I must say the wire connections to each wing are somewhat tedious.  There is not much extra wire to make connections and my hands are not very small.  Also the lighting connectors are NOT polarized plugs so you also have to be very cautious of plugging those in with the proper polarity.    Then the tedious stuffing of the wires into the small opening (individually… there isn’t room to do them all at once) while simultaneously sliding the wing panel onto the body.  As I said, tedious.  Of course you have to do this upside down and I was trying to be very careful not to put any pressure on the canopy (removed that) or the props (suspended off the edge of the table).

 

Finally, all assembled and I immediately noticed that it was a bit difficult to turn left on the ground… I suspect the cross wind from the right hitting those two big verticals is responsible for that!  But she lifted off pretty quickly.  I had to do quite a bit of aileron trim to keep it level and some elevator trim to keep the nose up.  I’m betting the aileron trim is a result of the inboard wing edge that is warped downward on the one side.  Finally, all level and flying smoothly I started to pull a loop but decide not to since it appeared that my elevator travel was a bit low and there was not a blazing amount of spare power either.  No big deal, I’d been flying for a few minutes so I might have been getting some sag from the batteries by then, so I just decided to get back on the ground.  First pass I came in without flaps and it was sinking awfully quick while still flying pretty fast so I went around and dropped half flaps and tried again.  My guess for elevator mix must have been about right and I came in a bit slower but still with a pretty fast sink rate…  That made for a moderate “hop” and then too much speed as I ran off our Geotex into the grass at a good clip.  That arrested the speed within another 15 feet or so but as it did so, one of the mains folded up!!  That was very disappointing as I really thought it wasn’t a terrible landing for the first attempt.

Here’s the retract with a bit of foam still attached… but not much.

And here’s the foam socket with (apparently) very little glue.

Further inspection showed that the gear mount had separated from the foam from (in my opinion) a notable lack of glue…  There didn’t seem to be any other damage but I was obviously done for the day.  I try to minimize repairs at the field, generally opting for moving on to another plane if the program is just casual flying so I went back to help Kelly work on his P-38.  Another impression I had after the flight was that the plane flew somewhat “heavy”… i.e. it flew like a warbird.  I was hoping for a bit more of a “foamy” feel to the plane but it was not totally unexpected with the modest wing area compared to the weight of this airplane.  I had read where some folks talked about it flying fairly light on the wing and coming in slow but that was NOT my experience.  Those guys must be hard core warbird flyers who are accustomed to the heavy wing loading of that type of plane.  For me, it seemed heavy but I don’t think I’d want to fly much less battery capacity as flights would get very short I would think.  Based on just this flight, I don’t think my 3300s will get me much more than 6 minutes, but I’ll have to fly a few more to be sure.  I wasn’t paying strict attention to that with all the other maiden flight checks and nerves going on.  Finally, the P-38 does not like to turn with just aileron.  It needs either some rudder mix or at least a pilot with a left thumb that doesn’t fall asleep from lack of use once airborne!  I fly a few other planes that like rudder in a turn (a Carbon-Z Cub, a Telemaster) so I adapted to that fairly quickly, though it will take a bit of flying to get just the right feel for it.

Moving on to Kelly’s P-38 in “Pacific Silver” we went through the same preparations and then he was off the deck.  In short order he was having problems getting the plane to turn and there were a couple times when it looked like he might not be able to control it to get it back down safely.  Finally, he was able to herd it onto the Geotex with a fairly fast but mild landing.  He too ran off into the grass and immediately one of his main retracts folded as well!  This aircraft definitely isn’t built for any but the smoothest runways!

Later inspection showed his retract to have a pitiful amount of glue as well, so apparently I didn’t just get the one built on a Friday!  Between the battle to keep the plane airborne… it seemed to be constantly yawing to one side… and the retract issue, Kelly was very disappointed with this aircraft.  He was running a single 5300mah battery and it certainly appeared that his airplane flew similarly to mine as far as landing speed and overall handling even with the somewhat lighter pack.

I am working to replace the retracts in both planes with a bit more generous portion of Foam-Tac and hoping we can keep those in place.  We are extending the Geotex runway soon at our club field so hopefully we won’t run off quite so easily anyway but it is disappointing that these are so fragile.

I have a theory on why Kelly’s plane seemed to have a serious yaw issue… more on that after some investigation.  So far, neither of us is particularly fond of the P-38s.  Hopefully we can work out the wrinkles and get in some more satisfying flights soon.

Extreme Flight 74″ Laser Electric… the Purchase is made.

Well for the last couple years since I sold my 55cc gas powered Wild Hare Slick 540, I’ve really missed having a big aerobatic aircraft.  I even considered swapping it to electric before I sold it but 50cc powered electric aircraft were a bit above anything I considered “reasonable” and I was moving toward converting to an all electric fleet and needed some seed money to make it happen.  Twenty cc equivalent power was near the limit at the time, at least in my mind.  Now I know that is an entirely personal measurement, but to me the battery power needed, cost of the motor, charging gear required, etc… were just a bit beyond what I wanted to take on to get to a 30cc or above power system.  Pretty much no one in the mainstream offered such a system and you really were getting a bit out on a limb to put something together that would perform well at those higher power levels.  If you purchased the wrong component the performance would suffer and so would your wallet, in a big way.  Plus flight times were woefully short on the systems I saw that I thought showed truly equivalent performance to for my big Slick.

Fast forward to March 2017 and I am looking again for a bigger E powered aerobatic aircraft.  I was shocked to hear that Aeroworks had gone the way of the dinosaur… I was flying a 90 size Extra of theirs that I loved but it still flew to “small”… so out the window went my idea of a 30cc size upgrade for that same Extra 260 which they made in several sizes.  With 30cc equivalent seeming to be a new sweet spot for E flight, I started looking around.  After a bit of searching I re-discovered Extreme Flight.  They not only continued to build their own brand but they had gobbled up 3DHS and some others and some of the newer line of planes intended for E power looked nice.  When I found they had a (by all accounts) high quality matching power system I got serious and homed in on what I thought would fit the bill.

I pretty quickly fell in love with the Blue and Yellow scheme on the 74” Laser and I couldn’t believe how light this plane was reported to be for it’s size!  

With the 35cc sized Xpwr motor on board the plane would be well over 250 and possibly close to 300 watts per pound!!  Even though I’m no 3D pilot, I do enjoy flying IMAC style flights and having the power to pull into a vertical and only then roll into the power for a nice constant speed line is something I never get tired of.  To do it consistently requires 3D level power and a little practice time.  This combo looked like it would provide for that possibility… only I would be the limiting factor!  It may not be quite the 87″ Edge, but it could be close enough to scratch that itch and give me the smooth lines that smaller planes just can’t provide.

So with a few days to spare I made the call and had the guys at Extreme Flight put one on the truck for me to pick up at the Toledo “Weak Signals” show.  Picking it up there would save me almost $150 in shipping and justify making the 4-5 hr trip (one way).  Of course I was always going to the show anyway but now I had a really good reason!!  Going to the show was going to save me money.  Or at least that is the way I explained it to my oh-so-understanding wife!

Long story short, I brought home not only the aircraft but the standoffs, servo arms, a full set of Hitec 7954SH servos, a pair of LiPo batteries, a Castle Edge HV-120, and spinner.  Yep, pretty close to the full boat!  Since then I have picked up some props, a Castle Xbus Telemetry Link and couple other little items I need to get it in the air.  This week I have begun assembly and will post more as I get it all together.  

My expectations are high and I hope it performs just half as well for me as Jase makes it look on the videos… of course it’s obvious Mr. Dussia could fly a brick with an .049 on it and make it look better than my best efforts with any aircraft I own, but it was nice to talk to him there in the booth and get his advice on the right equipment to pair with this air frame.

I’ll post some more as I do more of the build to update how it’s going and share my experiences with the Extreme Flight 74″ Laser.

Motion RC P-38 – outboard flap issue resolved

So, the silver P-38 sitting on my bench has one flap servo that appears to have the servo arm incorrectly installed.  See my previous post on this topic for details.  Motion RC P-38 – outboard flap issue

I was gathering the necessary tools to slice into the plane as described but decided to do a bit more research and found that others had pulled other servos out of the P-38 and reported that they were glued to the paint, not directly to the foam.  This gave me a bit more confidence that it would come out without tearing up the foam.

My first thought was that I would have glued the servo in directly to the foam…  which would have made this worse… so good thing no one asked me!  So with this new information I went back to the shop and made a careful incision all around the edges of the servo where any glue might be holding it and then with a pair of pliers I just grabbed on and started yanking and wiggling…

As advertised… the paint stuck to the glue and thus to the servo but the foam is largely undamaged.  With this I was easily able to then remove and replace the arm into the correct position and things then lined up nicely!!  Another hurdled cleared.  Glad I didn’t get in a rush about cutting into that wing!

We are now much closer to flight on these two birds and I’m starting to get back closer to the initial excitement to fly them that I had when we placed the order.  Just another session or two at the bench to get all the throws and rates set up and we should finally be in a flight worthy status… just in time to wait on the weather…

Motion RC P-38 – outboard flap issue

My buddy Kelly decided to put his P-38 on his new Graupner MZ-24 radio.  This gave me the opportunity to play with his new radio which posed some challenges but I’ll save that story for another time.  The issues with programming the MZ-24 were eventually resolved but then another issue with the P-38 was found.

The P-38 has a control board that acts as a 4 to 1 connection for the 4 flap servos.  This means that all movements (including centering and trim) affect all flap servos equally.  Unfortunately, one of the outboard servos is not set for neutral at the same point as the others.  Here is a picture of the two outboard flaps with the servo arm at neutral…

Notice the control rod in the picture above lines up with the edge of the servo case protrusion.  In the picture below, it is entirely inside the case protrusion.  I.E. the servo arm on one is much closer to perpendicular to the wing than on the other.

Because of this, the corresponding position of the control surface is impossible to match up between the four surfaces involved.  I can match up either endpoint on this one flap by adjusting the linkage but the further you move from that position, the more magnified the discrepancy between this surface and the other three becomes.  It’s simply geometry.

Typically, the solution to this is to simply remove the servo arm and rotate it to a matching position to the other 3…. assuming this difference is “one tooth” which I’m hopeful is the case.  In this installation the problem is compounded as the servo is sitting flat in the surface of the wing with the arm retaining screw pointing toward the wingtip.  I understand this orientation is likely a necessity as the wings are not exceedingly thick so orienting the servo this way makes sense but to every design decision there is a trade off and this one results in severely limiting access to that screw.  An additional compounding factor is that the servo is glued in place which makes accessing this screw nearly impossible without some more drastic measures.  I know this is common practice in foam models but it is NOT a practice a can say I’m fond of and this is a perfect example of why.

I tried to pull the servo out, but the glue appears to be underneath the servo and I don’t think I can remove it without risking tearing a hole clear through the wing…  So the only approach I can come up with is to cut a triangular groove into the bottom of the wing so that I can get a screwdriver in there and remove the screw so that I can rotate the arm to the proper position.  I’ve been looking at it for days and have come up with no better ideas so soon I will start the necessary surgery and hope for the best.  If I can make the cut precisely and neatly enough with a sufficiently sharp blade, I’m hopeful it can be replaced with minimal structural or even cosmetic damage.

I guess I need not point out that better quality control could have avoided this issue and perhaps Motion RC would do something to take care of this issue if I called but honestly what could they do?  Sending a new wing is the only option that would do us any good and with the decals already in place that makes a bit more work and I am hoping this will end up being an easy fix.  I hope the hardest part will be stealing myself to cut into my flying buddy’s brand new airplane!  I’ll post further post-op.  Wish me luck.

Motion RC Pacific Green P-38 progress – near flight worthy

After an email exchange with Motion about the sheared screw in the back plate of one of the spinners, they shipped me replacement spinners and screws.  While I still dislike this setup, I’m going to give it a try for at least a few flights.  To replace these with something more appropriate in a two blade, as discussed in an earlier post, is just more than I want to spend at this point on this airplane.

Moving forward with replacing the screw led to applying the wire covers on the bottom of the plane.  I deviated a bit here and just used some clear packing tape to hold these in place.  I’m not entirely sure how well that will hold up but we shall see.  I hesitate to glue those in case I need to get back in there and rerun any wires or the like.  This was followed by adding the antenna on the nose as well as the counterbalances on the elevator and the “decals”.

The decals seem to be a mixed bag on this bird.  First, the good news.  Many of the decals seem to be vinyl or something very similar and they seem to adhere well and look fairly good.  If you haven’t dealt with vinyl before, these are not peal and stick decals.  You do not float them off the backing like the plastic models of old.  Nor are they applied by just peeling them off the backing and rubbing them on.  You do that, but then you peel the top, clear plastic looking material back off the plane and leave the vinyl behind.  This can be a bit tricky at first.  My tip is to use something like a pencil eraser of the round screwdriver handle end to rub with a bit of force in order to get the vinyl adhered to the airplane and then be careful how you peal the carrier off.  Watch for the vinyl to lift back off.  If it starts to do that you need to rub some more!

The vinyl parts are the majority but there are some of each of the others as well.  This is very odd.  The decals for the props seem to be the old water float decals and in my opinion they are the worst of the group.  The props are not perfectly smooth with a fine grained surface and this makes it that much harder to get a good adherence with these water slide type decals.  These are the worst of the group and I really don’t understand this choice as these are the most likely to fall off I would think.

Finally the stars and bars seem to be just a peel and stick type.  I would much have preferred vinyl for these as well but they look decent.  I just question their longevity.

There is a full page diagram included that shows where to put all the small vinyl decals and the opposite side shows the relevant parts of the aircraft from various angles in order to allow for positioning of the nose art, kill marks etc…  It has been noted that there are some minor errors with the placement of the small decals for things like hatch cover markings, no step and similar items.  I don’t plan on applying all of them as most are invisible at more than 3 paces anyway.  If we get a lot of snow and I’m stuck at home for a full day in the next month or so I may go back and apply a few more but in my opinion they don’t add much.  I did the nose art and fuel cap markings, kill marks and few other larger markings and stopped at that.  The rest seem to be diminishing returns in my book.

I also had the displeasure of applying the slide on decals to the props.  I hate that these hardly seem to stick at all and appear to be the lowest quality of the markings as they are also some of the most visible when the plane is sitting idle and add a nice look to the props.  Unfortunately one of mine has already fallen off and I’ll be surprised if they last past flight 3.  Oh well, as we say at the field: “50 feet and 50 miles an hour”  If you can’t see it in that condition it isn’t worth worrying about!

After a batch of other sundry tiding up, labeling the wires etc… I’m pretty close to flight worthy.  Here’s what she looks like sitting in the new “up stairs” shop.

She’s looking pretty good.  Still not sure what to do about adding some invasion stripes on the wing and booms… I think it will need it for better visibility but I hope to get a few flights in before I get involved in that.  I’ve never been much of a painter so not looking forward to applying those but it may become a necessity.  Unfortunately there are no decals or vinyl for those included with the plane.

I think about all that is necessary before the first flight is possible is to set and double check the throws on the primary flight surfaces and check the speed controllers are calibrated/coordinated.  Beyond that there might be a few tweaks toward getting the telemetry set up the way I would prefer and checking balance with various battery options and it will be as ready as I know how to make it.  With a pair of 3300mah batteries on board it weighs in at 8lb 6ozs…  I’m expecting very war bird like performance but hoping (maybe wishing) for a bit lighter feel than my 24lb Mustang!  🙂

I’m taking a break from this one for a bit and working on getting the Pacific Silver version ready for Kelly.  We are having some issues getting his Graupner radio to do what we need and I keep missing out on making contact with Graupner support to iron it out so it has (pardon the unintended pun) stalled out for the moment.

 

 

Motion RC Flightline P-38 – Hinge fix

After some communication with the tech support folks at Flightline, I embarked on a plan to repair the poorly glued aileron hinges.  To better explain the issue, here is a short video showing the undesirable motion of the aileron on Kelly’s silver P-38:

The Motion RC folks explained that the hinge in these planes is basically a rod that runs through the aileron with tabs that pivot around that rod extending into and glued (ideally) into the wing.  It’s these tabs that are apparently not secured very well in the two P-38s we received.  They suggested that I carefully drip some glue down into the pockets in the wing.  The following is how I carried that suggestion out:

This was unfortunately not unique.  At least half of the aileron hinges across both aircraft were found to be loose to varying degrees.  This is disappointingly poor quality assembly by Flightline.  Of course, the fix was not terribly onerous but I wonder how many folks have assembled the airplane and only found out this was an issue when the airplane shed an aileron or worse??

In any case, if you build or have built and are flying one of these I highly recommend you check your aileron hinges before you fly.  This could easily cause a loss of control with serious ramifications.

Motion RC / Flightline P-38 assembly… more issues crop up!

As my buddy Kelly and I worked yesterday on the latter stages of assembly, we came upon yet another issue with these birds.  As he was assembling the linkages and connecting them up, he noticed that there was some slop in the movement of the ailerons.  Here is what we found:

Above is the Aileron with the aileron centered and the servo holding the center position.  I am applying very light pressure to maintain this position.

Here I am applying a small amount of opposite pressure.  Again the servo is holding center position and the linkage has almost zero slop.  All of this motion comes from the hinges sliding around in the pockets (I think inside the aileron versus the wing…)

In this case, both of the hinge points (I think that is what they are) on the inboard end of this wing panel seem to be completely unattached on the aileron end.  I am rapidly becoming very disappointed with the quality issues on this airplane.  This is my first FlightLine and Motion RC purchase and I’m not exactly encouraged to spend more money with them at this point.  Still, I have had some issues with other manufacturers aircraft “out of the box”… and some of those have become my favorite planes.  Often this is based on a combination of flight performance and support from the manufacturer so I will withhold any final judgement until I get some response from Motion RC and I have a few flights on the bird under my belt.

Hoping for better things…

P38 conversion to “standard” 2 blade props… The plan.

As I think I mentioned in my last post, I really dislike the idea of having the 3 blade assembly on the Motion RC/Flightline RC P-38 being held together by the plastic back plate of the spinner and self tapping screws set into that plastic.  In order to eliminate this, I started looking at options.

I first thought I would simply purchase some one piece 3 blade props… but upon further study I realized that the spinners supplied with the kit were customer made and would not directly support such props.   Finding spinners that were appropriate would be possible but expensive and for all that expense I’d still have 3 blade props which are not my favorite from an efficiency perspective…  

My next thought was that perhaps I just purchase the 2 blade spinners and props from Motion RC that are provided as part of their sport power set?  The only issue is that the props are 12×8 two blade versus the 12×7 three blade set that is the standard set.  I want something approaching the same load and speed profile as the original if at all possible.  So the root question is what size and pitch prop in a 3 blade is most similar to the 12×7 stock 3 blade prop?

A bit of research revealed a loading factor can be calculated for any prop with the following formula:

PL=D*D*D*P*(square root(B-1) where PL=Prop Loading, D=diameter, P=pitch, and B=blade count.

Using this formula to calculate the loading factor of the stock props and then comparing to similar calculated factors for 2 blade options plus or minus an inch or two should give some propeller options that would be suitable.

In the course of measuring to see what options were possible due to ground clearance (I estimate anything up to a 14″ diameter would be reasonable) I found that the factory prop is actually about 6.25 inches in radius.  Based on that I adjusted to a 12.5 inch diameter for my reference point.

After loading in several prop sizes it became obvious that a 12×8 two blade was a far less appropriate match than a 13×8.  The 13×8 is less than a 1% load differential from the reference point while the 12×8 is 22% less load.  This means that the 12×8 propellers available from Motion RC just aren’t suitable for my purposes… not with the stock motors.  Based on past experience, it is highly likely that the difference between the stock prop and any other manufacturers similarly sized prop will vary by far more than this small percentage just due to blade shape and composition so, no guarantee but I think it will be close enough for my purposes.

This means I need both standard and reverse pitch 13×8 props and spinners.  Note that the spinners must be be cut to match the pitch direction so just 2 standard spinners won’t work here either.  Looking into all this, it appears the cost to get this all done is not exactly going to be cheap…  So maybe a flight or two with the 3 blades is in order to determine just how much I dislike this setup!  Maybe the plane will fly poorly enough that I won’t really want to spend the money…  🙂

Just as I was about to hit “publish” on this post I was assembling the propellers for both the green and silver aircraft when I had a problem that added yet another wrinkle…

As I was putting in one of the final screws on the final propeller assembly (for my green bird) one of the screws sheared off before it even got tight against the prop!  Here’s a picture of the result:

I’m a bit concerned, wondering if the other screws are all this weak?  Just when I was thinking maybe these assemblies would be OK…  This did not add to my comfort level.  I’m really in a quandary now as to which way to go.

The P-38s are here!!

As I got more involved with RC aircraft, I always wanted a twin engine aircraft… and in my book the only twin worth considering was the P-38 lightning.  I have always thought the P-38 was a gorgeous aircraft and I kept an eye out for a chance to purchase a nice example but there were a few issues with acquiring one.  Remember this was before the advent of high quality ARFs and certainly before low cost, high quality electric power systems became the norm so the only P-38s available were very large, very heavy gas powered craft with equally impressive price tags!  Smaller glow powered versions were few and far between partly because keeping two glow engines in sync has always been a challenge and I would assume partly due to the difficulty of designing an building an aircraft as structurally complicated as the Lightning.

For instance, designing and building a light and rigid boom assembly with the landing gear location limiting your options for structural integrity in the wheel well area would certainly be challenging.  And of course everything about the craft is round and tapered, making for additional challenges for the builder… especially if you wanted to create something close to the scale outline.  Lots of beautiful curves means difficult to form from Balsa, glue and covering.

Lucky for me, the days of stronger foam, carbon fiber reinforcement and inexpensive electric power systems is upon us!  Enter the Flightline RC P-38L available through Motion RC.  Since these first became available a few months ago, my buddy Kelly and I have both been watching the various on line forums for reports of both build quality and the air handling of this latest iteration of an RC version of the Lightning.  Reports seemed mostly positive so after he hinted for several months that we both should have one I recently texted Kelly with the phrase “I want the green one!”  It only took about 3 days after that before Kelly arrived at my shop with two fairly large boxes.  Here are a couple shots of the unboxing:

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And here is the workbench (all 12′ of it!) covered in P-38 parts!!!  Now that is a bunch of airplane parts….

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At first impression I can say that these things are pretty impressive.  For $349, you are getting what seems to be a fairly strong airframe with two motors, two speed controllers, 9 servos, 3 bladed props, spinners, decals for 4 different aircraft, servo linkages, etc…  Basically it looks like EVERYTHING you need to fly except batteries and a receiver.  Yes, as widely reported, you can certainly see the foam cell structure through the paint.  This is especially true of the silver model as it has a higher gloss/luster to it.  Scale aficionados will doubtless be displeased but the overall lines are very nice and I am not trying to win any scale contests here so my initial impression is that they look pretty good.

I’ll post more as I get to assembling.  I’ve already ordered the upgraded landing struts (they seem like deal for $40 for the set!) and my receiver is on order as well.  I expect to be posting again soon as I don’t think I can stand to let these lay around here for very long.  Christmas just came a month or so early! 

 

Conversion of the Telemaster 40 to Electric Power – Part 3

When is the 300th flight a maiden?  Telemaster 40 returns to flight once more!

Since the last update about 6 months ago, I finished up the covering job on the Telemaster and got all the servos and radio gear back in the old Telemaster 40.  The usual challenges of hindging, recovering and getting control horns back in place kept me avoiding these somewhat onerous tasks but once I got past some of that and got close enough to see the finish line I quickly finished her up and it was time to put her back in the air.

Here it is after the final decals were applied, screws tightened and radio system installed.

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One of the common tasks I ran into when I went to reinstall the servos was to rerun the servo wires out into the wing bays.  Of course I should have run those when I had the covering off but of course that thought didn’t occur to me.  First, I applied the servo clips (how can you attach extensions to servo wires without those?) to insure the wires stay together.

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Then I grabbed my custom servo wire guiding tool (patent pending) and thread the wires back in there…  This tool is quite complicated (a string and a nut) and customizable by picking out a longer string or a smaller or larger nut!  Here it is in action.

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Tie your servo lead to the end of the string, fish the nut down through the wing and pull the wire though… presto!

With the 3700 6S on board the plane now weighs approximately 7lbs.  Figuring the original 5.5lb weight (approximately) and adding the on board fuel weight (maybe 3/4 of a lb) means it has gained maybe 3/4 of a lb flying weight.  This is a bit more than I wanted but this plane flew so light that I think an extra couple pounds would leave a flyable airplane but I admit I would like to keep it as light as possible.  I fully expect the power system to be able to handle up to about a 9lb airplane to at least “hover” if not “pull straight out of hover” levels so it may be that the extra weight won’t cause a problem.

So, with all that in mind, off to the field to meet up with several of my flying buddies and see how it goes.  This is the third covering scheme on this aircraft.  It started off base white with some red and green highlights and then after I needed to do some maintenance that caused much of the red and green to exit, I decided over a white bread sandwich that red, yellow and blue polka dots were the answer.  Now along with the conversion to electric power, I went to a combination of transparent yellow, white and checkerboard black/white.  While all had their appeal, the new scheme is my favorite.

The first flight session went remarkably well.  The new hatch gives ample access to the battery area and there is plenty of room to shift the battery to achieve any desired balance point.  In addition it appears to allow for plenty of air flow and the magnet (which I had been concerned about) is keeping the hatch in place nicely.  After the last flight of the first day, I noticed the engine had started to move.  Upon further investigation I realized just how loose it was!  Here’s a shot showing some of the issue.

2016-05-18 19.55.52-opt

Not one of the mounts is still tight!  Two of the back screws are completely lo0se inside the body and one of the front mount screws is missing!  Yikes!  In the back of my head, as I looked it over I remembered thinking I would go back later and apply thread locker and re-tighten these mount screws.  Such is the danger of spreading out a job like this over close to a year span.  Later never quite arrived… until after these first few flights.  I got lucky that no damage resulted.

Once home, I pulled all the bolts and added some thread lock before re-tightening and she was ready to go again.  Next trip proved that the airplane still flies as well as ever.  The added weight doesn’t seem to hurt, maybe even helping in somewhat breezy conditions.  It seems to fly well with anything from my smallest to largest 6S batteries, from 3200 to 4500mah.  The 32/3300 packs give me a safe 5 minute or more flight with the 4500 netting an easy 15 minute flight.  Short takeoffs with flaps are easily doable with slow lazy flight being the real forte of this old but dependable platform.  The plane will pull straight up indefinitely with any of the packs as well so float flying, glider tow and carrying my RC jumper all seem doable.  This is a great start.

The 300th flight… or just the latest maiden flight.  Anyway you look at it, the Telemaster continues to perform well.  When I opened that box of sticks ~15 years ago… who would have guessed!