Two P51 flights Saturday at the field

Though I’ve flown the Top Flite giant scale Mustang a half dozen or so flights in the past, yesterday was the first time since I swapped in the Power safe receiver and moved it over to the DX-18 that I’ve had it in the air.  It was a sort of second maiden flight.

All in all, the weather was just about perfect once a rain storm cleared.  The wind was almost zero and the temps were in the high 70s.  The plane seemed to fly well with only the landing being a bit tricky because my flap mix resulted in a marked nose down pitch.  This meant that I could land without flaps… something I don’t recommend as the plane requires a fair amount of airspeed to fly… or with flaps while constantly holding in some up elevator to compensate.  I chose the “with flaps” option and managed to get it down with only a minor bounce or two.

I decreased the flap mix a bit after the first flight and tried again, this time getting in some knife edge flight and some high speed, relatively low passes with good results.  It appears I could use some more rudder throw and it was programmed for triple rates but I was unsure of my switchology and this was not the time to start flipping to find it so I will try some higher rates on the next flight once I am confident of which switch does the trick.  When it came time to land I found the same issue as before, though not as bad.  I will reset the mix to put in some up elevator for the next flight and see how that works out.  I guess this plane requires up elevator mixing with the application of the flaps instead of the expected down trim to prevent ballooning.  Looks like the drag wins out over the increased lift in this case.  Again the landing was at least “not damaging” but the rain was threatening so we packed it in for the day.

Today, upon recharging the flight packs I found they took 183 and 249 to top off the starboard and port packs.  Between the two flights this was about 12 minutes of flight time so it seems to take about 35mah per minute of flight.  With two 2300 LiFes on board and an average 10 minute flight…. well I don’t think I’ll worry much about charging between flights if I come with full packs!  I can monitor the idle and in flight voltages via the Telemetry system but will eventually likely need to rig a way to monitor the flight packs “at rest” at some point in the future.

Telemetry tells me I hit almost 4 Gs positive and 1 negative during these flights with a max airspeed of about 85 mph.  Temperatures on the motor stayed in the range of about 200-230 degrees (F) once it was warmed up, which seems to be a fairly normal range from what I’ve seen so far.  Static RPMs hit almost 6000 with the 22×10 Xoar but showed over 10,000 in the air.  I can’t really believe that is occurring… must be some sort of telemetry glitch.  I’ll eventually have to look into that to see if I can figure out a way to refute that and fix or at least explain that odd readings.  I plan on flying the Mustang again soon in preparation for our club Airshow coming up on July 28th.  I’ll try to post more as I get some more time on the airframe.

My P-51B Top Flite Giant Scale Mustang

This post is just to cover the basic stats of one of the larger planes in my fleet.

Here’s a pic of me with my P-51 at the Indianapolis RC Modelers’ field in Morristown, IN.

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Here are all the facts and figures for those who care:

Top Flite Giant P51D Mustang ARF…  Converted to a B model.

WS 84″.5  L 73″

Weight ~21 lbs

11 servos – Hitec 645s, Hitec 7955s

DA-50 with Keleo scale exhaust

JR 12 DSMX powersafe receiver

Batteries are 2 A123 2300mah for the receiver with BEC for ignition

TM1000 Spektrum Telemetry module with:  3 axis 8 G sensor, Altimeter, Airspeed Sensor, Temperature Sensor (engine), Receiver voltage, Ignition voltage, RPM sensor

Spektrum DX18

Vinyl Stars and bars, nose art, pilot name – BandE Graphixs

Body was stripped, converted to the B then glassed before I got it.

 

Approximate Cost

Airplane $400

Motor $300

Servos $400

Batteries & switches $150

Telemetry $300

Rcvr $200

Prop and spinner $75

GI Joe, panel, etc $50

Fuel tank $50

Servo extensions $50

Covering 2 alum, 1 yellow, 1 red, 1 flat grn, 1 fly black -$75

BandE Graphix – $100

~$2150 total

 

FlyZone Beaver – Update #2

Spent a little time looking at the water rudder connections and decided to just eliminate one rudder… never needed more than one on any other float plane… then do a standard pull-pull connection to the other.  It’s all rigged now.  Looks like this:

 

Re-rigged water rudder on the FlyZone Beaver.
Re-rigged water rudder on the FlyZone Beaver.

 

Kept the eyelets on the end for adjust-ability and used Kevlar thread for the runs just because I had a small amount on hand that was probably not enough for anything much larger.  I haven’t tested it yet so will have to get back with update #3 with a report after a field test… or is that pond test?

FlyZone Beaver – Update #1

Just a quick update with thoughts after float flying the FlyZone Beaver.

The plane does fly well off of water and looks great in the air with the floats attached.  But I continue to find shortcomings that make me wish for a bit more refinement from FlyZone.

In this case its the water rudders that have me irritated.  No two ways about it, the linkage mechanism with the rubber bands to return them to center is just a bad design from square one.  They are impossible to get to center well and especially to do so repeatedly.   The rudders will turn sideways and drag in the water (of course only one at a time) causing uneven drag and unexpected turns.  I usually say a water rudder is a necessity for float planes but I’m tempted to disconnect these permanently.  Maybe I can rig a pull-pull cable system for one and remove the other….  its worth a try because the system as is… is just crap.

The plane is not particularly overpowered either so taking off does require some time using the water rudders.  It’s not terribly underpowered either, unless your dragging a sideways rudder through the water on takeoff!

In case you are wondering, while at the Nall recently I was camped next to two guys who both had them and they had the same issue with the water rudders… it isn’t just me!

I will continue to fight this problem so if I come up with an acceptable solution I will post again.  With the money invested and the space it takes to haul this plane around with the wings attached permanently (for all intents) I have to at least make it into a good float flyer so it won’t become a total hangar queen!

 

 

Changes to the 50cc Slick… Gas tanks and propellors

My WildHare Slick with DLE-55 power has always been a great airplane to fly.  This is my second one and I have learned a lot since I flew one first about 5 years ago.  As I learn more about mixes, balancing, setup, etc… I continue to make minor changes both for performance and to suit my own preferences.   The most recent changes are a new Falcon 23×9 CF propeller and a new fuel tank.  First I’ll talk about the tank and the reasoning behind it.

I had noticed that with all the other setup at least in the ballpark, I could not set my elevator to have enough throw to get a clean break in my spin entries AND at the same time keep it from snapping out if I pulled a tight loop.  A friend of mine pointed out that this could be because the plane was to nose heavy.  That seemed plausible as I have a tendency to setup my aircraft that way.  I’m leery of getting into a tail heavy setup as that makes the plane to sensitive and jerky on the sticks.  Doing some quick flying checks it did appear I was even more nose heavy than I normally fly so I started looking to remove some nose weight or shift it back.

I’ve never been fond of the standard tank setup in these gas birds as the tubing hardens or softens over time (depending on what type you use) so I had gone to a RotoFlow tank which has internal brass tubing with a heavy clunk that rotates in the back of the tank.  A couple years of use has proven they are really very nice systems.  The problem in this case is the tank is in front of the balance point and therefore contributing to the nose heavy issues.  The one problem with these tanks is that they are heavier than about any other setup.  I have a 24oz tank in my Slick which is really far more than needed if  you have a reliable pickup system… which it does.  That means I could stand to use a smaller tank as well… more weight savings from the tank material as well as carrying less fuel would lighten the plane and shift the balance.  Just what the doctor ordered.

I looked around and saw that many folks (especially the 3D crowd) had gone to what I call the “water bottle” tanks.  They are made of extremely thin (and therefore light) plastic like most water bottles are now.  Though I would be going back to the tubing that will likely harden and necessitate replacement every so often, this is less of an issue since the tank is so easy to get to in this airplane.  I found a nice 20 oz bottle from the good folks at B & E Graphix which is preassembled with a nice felt covered clunk and installed it with a savings of about 4 ounces in weight plus carrying 4 liquid ounces less fuel for a nice overall weight savings.  This is just in front of the wing tube so won’t be a big balance change but every little bit helps and overall weight savings is good as well.  For around $17 it seemed like a pretty good deal.

http://bandegraphix.com/products/product_images/tank%2020oz.jpg

 

The second change I made at that same time was to swap my Xoar 23×8 Laminate for a Falcon 23×9 Carbon Fiber.  I broke one of my Xoar props recently when a taxi with tailwind turned into a “nose stand” maneuver :-(.

I had heard good things about running one of these with a DLE-55 (which is what I run) and was assured by the vendor that even with my canister (Proflow… it has been excellent so far) it would not drag my motor down any more than the Xoar does.  I get about 6200 with the 23×8 but the Falcon looks to be a bit thinner blade so the pitch may not cause as much of an issue.  Checking the weight resulted in good news.  The Falcon is 1-1.25 ounces lighter than my laminate Xoar.  This should help the nose heavy issue quite a bit being as it is weight that is about as far forward of balance as is possible.

After both these changes were accomplished I have done half a dozen flights and noticed my balance is much closer to neutral than before.  Still just a touch on the nose heavy side but by only a small margin which makes me very happy.  The Falcon gives me a bit more speed on the up lines and seems to still brake enough to keep the down lines from gaining much speed so all in all, an excellent choice of prop for my needs.  $70 is not what I’d call cheap but CF props never are!  I haven’t tach’d it with the new prop yet but performance seems fine in long pulls so I expect to see about the same RPMs as before.  Nicely in the lower power band of this motor and ideal for what I do with the airplane.

Overall both changes seem to have accomplished what I wanted.  I encourage anyone with similar desires to try these products out.  They seem to be winners.

 

Flyzone DHC-2 Beaver… “Missed it by that much.”

First flights and final thoughts on the Flyzone Beaver

Yesterday afternoon, April 8 was the first flight on the Flyzone Beaver.  The first flight was done on wheels with an 1800 3 cell (older, brand unknown) LiPo.  Power was adequate with the 3 blade 11×6 MA making little excess noise.  After a bit of aileron and elevator trim she smoothed out fairly well considering the slightly breezy conditions.  Taxi on our early spring uncut/rough field was adequate even with the stock wheels.  Roll rate was acceptable (not fast, but OK considering the long wingspan), tight to mediums size loops were possible but don’t stretch it to far or you may run short of power.  Turns needed a bit of rudder to avoid “skid” and add some authority.  Nothing wrong with any of that.  It was hard to get a really good feel for the handling with some 15+ MPH gusts up there but generally I would say it handled well.

That success led me to spend the time to attach the floats and try it again.  Attaching the floats was a bit of a job with 2 people working it.  I probably would have given up and waited to do it on my bench where I have a better stand, no wind to deal with etc… had I not had help.  I don’t see doing this often as a real option… certainly not at the field.  I will probably only switch them back and forth 2 or 3 times a year.  They could make this a lot easier with a bit of design work but that seems to be the theme for this airplane.  I pulled the water rudders off to avoid any untoward encounters with the ground.  Unfortunately they are not pivoting like my larger water rudders are (“spring” loaded via a rubber band) so flying off of hard surfaces like snow/ice/dirt with them attached is not recommended.  At least not by me!

Here I am with floats attached after all the days flying was over with…

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Photo by K. Bogigian

The second flight, the first with floats, was more of a sit in place and struggle to move due to the increased friction and a less than fully charged battery.  Swapping the battery for a smaller capacity but fully charged power source got it sliding and once moving it took 30-50 feet to get up to speed and then was off.  Not terrible considering we are talking dry grass here.  Based on my experience with larger planes with glow engines flying off both water and grass this gives me confidence that getting off the water won’t be difficult.  Flying was not a lot different than without the floats.  The extra weight was not a big issue and did add some additional stability in the wind.  Here’s a couple flight photos.

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Photos by K. Bogigian

You can’t deny that straight out of the box the plane looks pretty good in the air.  The lines look good to my eye and with the added weight of the floats the plane has a bit more stable track as well.  The flaps seem to do almost nothing with the factory available travel.  I will eventually have to do something to correct that.  There is simply no more travel available with the existing control arm and linkage geometry. Maybe as part of that I will change the linkage to something much easier to re-connect like a snap on ball link or something similar.  This would help to overcome the whole wing removal and attachment difficulties without having to readjust the flaps each time.  Even with my SUV it takes up entirely to much room with the wings and floats attached.

Here are my current overall feelings on the Beaver at this point.

The Beaver certainly seems to fly well and has excellent ground handling on wheels.  I expect good things from float flying as well based on my “floats off of grass” flight.  The outlines and color scheme are good which results in a good looking and very visible aircraft.  The quality of the build is somewhat lacking… not in any way that will affect flight-worthiness but rather making the plane’s cosmetic details poor.  Errant glue, lack of same where it belongs, “smeared” colors, etc… all take a potential A+ aesthetic and bring it down to average.  The biggest drawbacks however are based on a lack of consideration to the things that make an RC plane easy to get ready to fly and maintain.  Access to the interior is limited, “daily” assembly is painful and likely results in changing centering/trim on the flaps and wing removal and attachment just isn’t thought out well.  Ditto for swapping between landing gear and floats.  Even changing batteries can be a tricky balancing act since there is no easy way to support the plane while inverted while simultaneously using 2 hands (a necessity) to swap the battery.  At least not without a cradle of some sort.  For around $200 I expected a bit better.

I hope Flyzone will spend some time re-engineering and come out with a Beaver version 2 at some point in the future as the subject matter is great and it could be a great little RC airplane with some better engineering.  I expect to have some fun flying on floats (always a favorite of mine) but this plane will not get the number of flights it deserves due to the drawbacks noted.  To quote Maxwell Smart… “Missed it by that much”.  It’s a bit early to give this plane a final grade but I think at this point I would rate this plane a solid C+.

 

Flyzone Beaver – Basic assembly finished

Well, the Beaver is ready for a preliminary flight.  Assembly is done with the exception of some thread lock on a few of the control surface adjustment screws.

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Flyzone DHC-2 Beaver ready for 1st flight…

To get to this point I went through the instruction manual and completed all the appropriate steps and other than some slight issues with the order of steps it was all pretty clear. For some reason, Flyzone thought it better to attach the tail wheel before installing the horizontal and vertical stab (which is all one process) and that just puts the wheel in the way so I took it back off as I was fiddling with getting the tail attachment done and then reinstalled it afterword.  It’s not a big issue either way.  I did appreciate that the instructions leave attaching the prop as the very last step which is always a good idea for electrics, which are always dangerous once the prop is installed.  Electrics are like safely handling a firearm… assume it’s always “loaded” or ready to spin the prop and you are a lot less likely to get hurt.

I stripped the windshield off (it looked ready to eject at any moment out of the box anyway, held on with only 6 little dots of glue) and used that access to make some of the build steps a bit easier.  Also, since I have no plans to ever remove the wings again I went ahead and spot glued the aileron/flap/lighting wires down so they were not dangling down and visible in the windows of the Beaver. I left the reattachment ’till the very last thing so I could more easily get to my receiver which now resides in the front seats.  I added a little dark foam over the top of it so that it’s not very visible and reasonably secure.

I did trim one of the wing struts to match the length of the other.  This involved removing the screw and end piece from the tube.  Re-drilling the screw hole for the end piece to attach to the spar tube and reattaching.  This was not particularly difficult but I wonder how/why they are different lengths to start with.  Even after that the wings don’t seem to be perfectly level with the horizontal stab but there doesn’t seem to be an adjustment method mentioned or provided for.  I will likely try some shim washers at the spar attachment point on the bottom of the wing to see if I can force the wing to level.  It’s not bad but straight planes just fly better so I’ll give it try.

I can’t recall ever finishing a plane and flying it exactly according the manual and the Beaver will not be an exception.  Here are the things that I changed prior to being deemed first flight ready:

  • I didn’t care for the 2 blade prop and oversize chrome plated plastic spinner so I ordered a 3 blade Master Airscrew replacement along with a prop nut from the ParkZone T28 and replaced this assembly.  It’s an easy swap and looks a bit more scale to my eye.  Everything I’ve read says the Beaver can afford the very slight power loss this will likely cause.  I’m not usually a fan of 3 blade props for efficiency reasons, nor MA brand props as they don’t seem as rigid as some others and just don’t seem to pull as well compared to other manufacturers offerings I could name but I couldn’t find any other that fit the bill so I’m going to give them a try in this case.  If I really need better power I can always switch back to a 2 blade and/or some other brand and composition.
  • I pulled the receiver and went to something that is directly compatible with my Spektrum radios.  I wanted to add a channel or two anyway and had a nice 9 channel DSMX receiver laying around so that is what is in the bird.  Totally unnecessary to have anything this high end but it was available and what with splitting the ailerons and adding an “e-switch” I needed 7 channels at least.  Anylink was an option but with the range limited to 1000′ per the manufacturer and the external box and cabling.. etc.. I just don’t like the solution they offer for my radio system.  All the external connections are messy and 1000′ is just not far enough for this big a plane in my opinion.
  • As mentioned, I added an e-switch (an RcExcel opto kill switch in fact) so I can turn the lights on and off from my DX8.  I disliked the idea that the lights would constantly pull current from my battery when I don’t need them during full daylight and I had the switch laying around so why not?!  I think it will be cool to switch them on when the light starts to fade.

Of course by the time I stuffed the large receiver (and 1 remote) and the e-switch into the bird it simply wouldn’t easily fit in the compartment up front so I moved the receiver to the front seat area as noted before.

That puts the Beaver in a “ready for maiden flight” status at this point.  Maybe later today if not a bit later this week she will venture into the sky.  Once I get a flight or two, I will go back and thread lock the various EZ connectors that hold the flight surfaces.  I’ve never been fond of these for primary flight controls but for this little plane I will try to live with them.  Next update should be a flight report and/or the float assembly and installation.  Hoping to be fully ready and tested out on floats before Joe Nall 2013 in May.

 

Flyzone Beaver – Unpacking and inspection

Started unpacking and inspecting the Flyzone Beaver.

Pulled all the parts out of the box, removed all the bubble wrap and scanned for damage.  Worst ding is in one of the floats – took a picture or two as I went.

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I guess my hopes were pretty high after reading 185 pages (not finished yet) of the discussion thread on one of the popular RC sites.  So far I’m not overly impressed.

Yes, the flaps and ailerons are actuated in a very scale appearing manner, the overall lines are nice as well and its great to get the nice lighting package already installed.  Having the option to run floats or wheels with both included is wonderful too.  However…

I’m gonna blame the amount of dings/scuffs/scratches etc… on the packing method.  Sure most things are wrapped in some micro-bubble wrap and the inboard ends of the wings where all the linkage and joiners stick out were covered in cardboard… but somehow things managed to vibrate/rub and bang into each other on their way here.  In addition to the ding in one float, the landing gear “fairing” where it meets the body of the plane on one corner is slightly crushed and almost broken off.  The bottom of one wing has a groove in it where something rubbed or pushed up against it and there are a few others similar spots.  Most notably the side windows which bubble out nicely (very cool looking) are both scuffed/scraped up (very not cool looking).

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None of this damage is really bad but it seems to me that if Flyzone had gone one extra step and after bubble wrapping everything simply taped all the pieces to the box (like others do) the chances of damage of this type would have been significantly decreased.  I’ll get over it but when you buy something new it would be nice if it looked new!

In addition there are lots of other small things that add up to my overall feeling of disappointment.  Many places the orange decals were applied to the foam with what appears to be sand grains under it forming small but noticeable protrusions.  The bottom of the horizontal stab has some nasty smears where it appears the black ink/paint ran over the orange and one spot where it looks like the orange dripped on the black.  Luckily its on the bottom so I guess most folks won’t ever see it.  Hard to spot at 50 feet and 50 mph!

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Oh, and the whole front windscreen is loose.  Doesn’t look like it was ever glued in properly and I guarantee the airflow around it would certainly have it coming loose in flight in the first 5 minutes if I don’t re-glue it.  Lucky I’m a modeler!  Speaking of glue, whatever they use it is apparently difficult to get in the right place.  There are many places where glue has been… let’s say “generously applied”, resulting in some sloppy looking glue joints and then others like the windscreen where glue appears to be sadly lacking.  Not sure yet what I’m going to do with the over application areas… trim back… leave alone.  We’ll see.

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Just looking over the plane and realizing that its going to be a job to hook up and route all the wires away where they won’t be obvious and getting the servos to hook up and adjust things through that small top hatch is likely to be a challenge but that wouldn’t be so bad if they had found a better way to attach the wings.  Why not put a servo in each wing for the flaps so we could avoid all that routing of the wire push rods while simultaneously having to get all three (yep, three!) wing joiner tubes to line up correctly?  Seriously, 3 rods??  Countless other wings use 1 wing joiner tube.  Oh, and the struts are apparently held on with screws in plastic so taking them on and off many times seems to me to be problematic at best.  How many times is that going to work before I strip the holes, the screw heads or lose them altogether?  Did I mention the struts appear to be two different lengths?  I don’t think that’s right, is it?

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The result of all this unnecessarily complicated assembly is that taking the wings on and off is going to be a royal PITA which I likely will just forgo.  Luckily I have an SUV and a trailer to haul my airplanes as I can’t see taking these wings on and off on a regular basis.  Oh, and changing  back and forth from wheels to floats… not sure how easy that is going to be and that is exactly what I’m going to want to do!

I just can’t figure out what this airplane wants to be… With all the build issues, minor damage, etc… it just doesn’t measure up as a scale bird for me.  On the other hand, with the limited utility of the wings being essentially fixed and a bit of an upscale price (for a small foamy) it doesn’t seem to fit into the “everyday, keep it in the trunk and just fly it” category either and that is a bit disappointing to me.  I was hoping for something a bit “prettier” than my Parkzone T28 that would be as easy to “just go fly”.  That doesn’t seem to be the case here.

The Beaver would make a great scale project… strip it down and fix all the issues, re-paint and add details to your hearts content.  Maybe that is the real niche for this plane.  Unfortunately, I wasn’t really looking for a big project!

I’m just hoping once I get it all done I’ll enjoy the flying qualities and especially the float flying capabilities so much I can overlook the drawbacks.  Perhaps as I progress, I will see some more positive attributes, find out things are better than I think and generally learn to love the Beaver.  Updates soon.

Telemaster 40 – The workhorse of my fleet.

This is a picture of me with one of the oldest planes in my current fleet….  The Telemaster 40.

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(I’ll add some basic stats here later….)

I built this airplane from a kit back around 2000 or 2001 and I recall telling folks it was a box of sticks with some loose suggestions about how to build an airplane!  It wasn’t all that bad, but it wasn’t like the newer kits that have pictures for every step either.  It was a rolled up set of plans with about 5 pages of double columns of fairly fine print for instructions.  The plans are well drawn and the instructions about as clear as you can get but there were still many challenges along the way.

In any case, the results are a very light, great flying machine.  Notice I didn’t necessarily say it was “easy flying” because I don’t think of the Telemaster as a great training machine.  I’ve instructed for a few years and I would pick any number of the newer trainers over the Telemaster as a first airplane.

Flying wise, I’d say the Telemaster is great, but somewhat different than most planes. Maybe closer to the way a scale cub flies than most trainers.  Getting the most out of this plane requires you to use rudder to avoid a lot of “skid” in the turns and the flying tail combined with the tail-dragger configuration forces the proper application of rudder and elevator to get smooth take offs and landings.

But don’t get the idea that this means it doesn’t fly well.  It’s a blast to fly since it weighs in at something like 5.5 lbs with a Saito .82 for power (probably one of the few trainers of this size that truly would fly well with a standard bushing .40!).  It floats down and lands so soft and easy that it’s hard to tell when it is actually on the ground.  Throw in the flaps and low passes can last what seems like minutes as the plane almost hovers while remaining parallel to the ground.  With the extra power of the Saito, takeoff rolls are optional with comments like “Gee, you almost rotated those wheels a full turn before you left the ground!” being common.  Of course you can feed the power in easy and do a nice “pick up the tail and roll sedately down the runway” type takeoff once you get the hang of it.  Touch and goes can be done similarly without the tail wheel ever making contact but the mains on the ground for 200′ or more… if that’s your preference!

Because of the sturdy and light construction, you can carry a drop box, strap on floats, maybe a camera, carry a glider aloft… whatever you like.  I’ve done all these and a few others just because I can.  Rolls can be slow to moderate… truly fast is not in the cards with the 6′ wingspan and small ailerons but you can add rudder to get a little quicker roll if needed.  Stall turns and inverted flight are no problem, in spite of the dihedral and loops are no issue at all.  The tail feathers are quite a way back there and the surfaces there are fairly large so rudder and elevator are both quite effective.

Assuming the ARFs are half as much fun, I would recommend a Telemaster to anyone interested in a versatile, fun to fly plane.  It’s a step up, skill wise from most trainers but it’s worth the effort and will teach you some really good lessons about using the wing, what that left stick is for besides going faster (if your mode 2) and allow you to get into all sorts of interesting related things like flying on skis, floats or whatever.

In case you were wondering, the “Wonder” color scheme is the second incarnation of this bird.  It’s earlier “Italian Green and Red” color pattern which was a bit more traditional looking had seen better days so winter of 2012 I made a change and stripped the covering down to it’s mostly white base.  I then recovered a few damaged areas and ended up with a basic white palette.  Having a set of dies handy to make circles of various sizes with little effort and a bunch of colors of leftover covering spawned the idea and the newly re-named “Wonder” plane was re-born!

Now all the best puns are heard often.  “I have a lot of bread tied up in this plane”, “It’s a wonderful flying plane”, “It’s a little slice of heaven”…   You can imagine.